The Spring 2026 COS Show combines elements of American Gigolo and '90s minimalism set in a bathhouse in Seoul.
On Wednesday, COS maintained its impressive series of runway shows by debuting the spring/summer 2026 collection at a bathhouse in Seoul, South Korea. The stars of the spring campaign, Alexander Skarsgård and Gyuyoung Park, were seated in the front row alongside Emma Roberts, Thai singer Mile Phakphum Romsaithong, and Korean singer Sohyun Kim, all of whom attracted a crowd of dedicated fans to the stark venue on the city's outskirts. Karin Gustafsson, the London-based brand's design director, mentioned that the film American Gigolo (1980), featuring Richard Gere and Lauren Hutton, was referenced during the design process for this collection. "I love that effortless dressing that is also elegant," she shared with Who What Wear after the show, highlighting the film's iconic wardrobe. "[Spring 2026] drew from classics, yet it had a volume that gave it a casual elegance." The collection's title, Cinematic Beauty, directly reflects the film's influence. "We aimed to create a strong sense of character," she added.
To balance the '80s inspiration from the film and its attire, Gustafsson also drew inspiration from the '90s, particularly its well-known minimalism. This included clean lines, neutral tones, and silhouettes typical of the era, such as pencil skirts and slinky knits. During the collection's creation, Gustafsson recalled listening to music from that decade, particularly citing the Pixies as a favorite. "I adore '90s music, so I always have it playing," she remarked.
While traveling from our hotel to the after-party and dinner that followed the show, everyone seemed to share a common thought. We were scrolling through the collection on our phones as it had just gone live on COS.com. After spending over a month analyzing the fall runways following a particularly challenging winter, witnessing the launch of a light and breezy collection like this felt like a reward, and everyone wanted to secure their favorites before they sold out. Both of my preferred pieces had already received "low stock" alerts, and they weren't alone.
Regarding items at risk of selling out, there are nearly too many to list. This means that nothing is guaranteed, so you should act quickly if you want to seize a piece of COS's legacy. The debut look, an all-white ensemble accentuated by a sculptural neckline on a poplin shirt, is among the most sought after, and only a few sizes remain available. Another highlight was a burgundy leather skirt-and-top combination, which is also quickly disappearing. Gustafsson noted that predicting customer interest after a show is always tricky. "You may have your own favorites, but you never truly know how the audience will react," she commented. Personally, she highlighted the crinkled leather and silk pieces that closed the show, stating, "I think those are stunning."
The spring collection showcased a blend of references from the '80s and '90s across its 40 looks, featuring everything from flowing suiting to sleek body-con dresses and skirts crafted from sheer knits that felt both luxurious and playful. Rich silk pieces, available in both smooth and intentionally wrinkled fabrics, appeared particularly high-end and polished, lending the collection a relaxed yet refined vibe that explains its rapid sellout rate. Additionally, I heard multiple attendees reference Carolyn Bessette Kennedy's style when discussing pieces from this collection. The late Calvin Klein publicist is especially relevant given the recent attention on Love Story: John F. Kennedy Jr. and Carolyn Bessette. The subdued color palette—cream, black, white, gray, with touches of blue and red—perfectly aligns with her iconic minimalist wardrobe.
Gustafsson explained the choice of Seoul as a backdrop: "I think Seoul embodies a certain effortless dress style. The street fashion here is incredibly captivating." This theme is evident throughout both the spring collection and COS as a whole. It was particularly noticeable in the hidden street location where the brand held its showroom during the week leading up to and following the show. Situated in the Yongsan District, the multi-floor space was adjacent to the boutiques and cafés of Maison Margiela and Lemaire, along with the trendy luxury Korean brand Le 17 Septembre. A multitude of restaurants, coffee shops, and shops surround the area, making it a hub for anyone keen on genuine Korean street style. South Korea also ranks as one of the brand's largest markets, which was clear just by observing its capital, where COS styles were prominently spotted among locals.
Stars from both Seoul and beyond gathered at the stark venue on the outskirts of the South Korean capital to witness the unveiling of the spring/summer 2026 collection, with Hollywood favorites like Skarsgård and Roberts joining local talents such as actress Gyuyoung Park and Meovv member Ella Gross. Both Skarsgård and Gyuyoung Park featured in the brand's recent
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The Spring 2026 COS Show combines elements of American Gigolo and '90s minimalism set in a bathhouse in Seoul.
Discover the spring 2026 collection inspired by American Gigolo and shop the top pieces before they're gone.
