How Rachel Scott Rose to the Position of Creative Director at Proenza Schouler

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      In this episode, Rachel Scott, the founder of Diotima and Creative Director of Proenza Schouler, discusses her journey of continuing a brand's legacy.

      Fashion designer Rachel Scott has had a passion for creating clothes since childhood. "I've always been obsessed with making clothes," Scott mentioned. "It was just a significant part of my upbringing." After studying French and art, she moved to Milan to begin her career in fashion. Eventually, she relocated to New York City and worked in the industry until she took a bold step and started her own brand, Diotima. In this latest episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, Scott talks about launching her line, becoming the creative director at Proenza Schouler, and more. For highlights from the conversation, read on.

      Can you share how you got started in fashion and what inspired you to create Diotima? My fascination with making clothes has always been there, rooted in my childhood. I would create outfits for parties, although they were quite different from what I design now.

      How did they differ? They were more revealing. Growing up in Jamaica, I made tiny skirts and triangle tops. Fashion has always captivated me; I was particularly influenced by the golden era of Vogue Italia. Raised in Kingston, I sought a broad education. Initially, I didn't study fashion, but rather focused on French and art, which led me to Italy where I studied fashion and began my career in Milan before moving to New York. I thrived in the industry, but during the pandemic, I experienced an existential crisis. I felt the need to rediscover meaning in my work, which prompted me to start Diotima.

      Since we last spoke, you became the creative director of Proenza Schouler. Can you tell me how you got that position? It was an exciting opportunity for Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez when they considered stepping back from Loewe. Interestingly, I had never met them before, though I had always been a huge fan and looked up to their work. Their brand holds a unique significance in American fashion, transcending typical notions of it, so I was disappointed to hear they were leaving. They wanted to ensure the brand was in capable hands, which I can only imagine was a difficult decision after nearly 25 years of building it. The current CEO, Shira Snyder, reached out to me, expressing interest in my work and asking if I'd be open to helping during this transition, knowing I was occupied with Diotima. I agreed, and initially operated in a supporting role. Within a month, Shira suggested I officially take on the role, and I happily accepted.

      Now, for a quick lightning round: What has been the most challenging piece for you to design? The most challenging projects involve transforming traditionally conservative pieces, such as a skirt set, into something interesting, as I find conservative designs unengaging.

      What current material, pattern, or silhouette are you particularly excited about? I'm currently in love with animal prints.

      Who is your favorite fashion designer working today? I have a few favorites. I was really taken with the striped jeans by Dario Vitale Versace; they were stunning, although I hesitated to spend $4000 on them knowing they might not flatter me. I also admire Yohji Yamamoto.

      This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.