Brocade, Lace, and Ruffles: The Dior Show Imagined Contemporary Bourgeois Fashion

      In Virginia Woolf's 1928 novel Orlando, the protagonist starts as an Elizabethan boy and transforms into a woman halfway through the narrative. Dior's Creative Director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, incorporated this title into her mood board while designing the fall 2025 collection for the French fashion house, particularly focusing on the novel’s themes of change and metamorphosis. For the designer, it serves as a reminder of clothing's transformative power and her fascination with the progression of fashion through various periods. The collection drew inspiration from past styles, ranging from antique to modern, gender-fluid to romantic. Overall, it highlighted a significant trend we've noted since last season: the modern bourgeoisie. This new chapter of modern maximalism is characterized by lavish prints, luxurious textures, and bold silhouettes, seen in brocade jackets, embroidered corsets, iridescent outerwear, and elaborate lace throughout Dior's collection. Of course, there were numerous celebrity appearances creating buzz outside the runway. Below, discover the main highlights from the Dior fall/winter 2025 show.

      **Familiar Faces**

      If it weren’t for the clothing showcased on the runway, the scene outside the Dior show could easily resemble any Hollywood red carpet during awards season, given the number of celebrities present. An array of well-known figures from film and music arrived in complete Dior ensembles, including Natalie Portman in a sharp shirtdress with knee-high boots, The White Lotus's Michelle Monaghan in a classic Dior tweed A-line skirt suit, Afrobeats artist Tems in a relaxed shirt and Parisian beret, and Lucy Hale in leather opera gloves and a Lady Bag.

      **The Modern-Day Bourgeoisie**

      We began observing the emergence of a trend we refer to as the modern-day bourgeoisie last season. Characterized by rich textures and opulent colors, this style signifies a collective shift from strict minimalism to a new era of modern maximalism. The Dior show embodied this theme, showcasing elaborate brocade jackets, embroidered corsets, iridescent outerwear, and even pantaloons teamed with tall boots, indicating a more extravagant and decorative take on fashion for fall 2025.

      **A Very Orlando-esque Wardrobe**

      The designer addressed the concept of fashion as a means of transformation in this collection, particularly evident in the collared ruffle shirts inspired by Woolf’s character Orlando, a wealthy nobleman who transitions genders in the story and reflects on both experiences. Grazia Chiuri views the white shirt as a “foundational element of an outfit liberated from gender norms,” as highlighted in the show notes. This collection presented a new interpretation of the classic staple with ruffled and high-neck designs, suggesting that Dior's shirts signify not just a single gender identity but a reminder of clothing's transformative capacity.

      **The Wrong Jacket Theory, Continued**

      It’s always gratifying to observe the emergence of a new trend and its enduring presence. In spring, designers experimented with the "wrong jacket theory," pairing sporty anoraks with ensembles that wouldn’t typically warrant such utilitarian pieces, like draped skirts and sequined dresses. The Dior collection indicates that this styling approach will continue into the next season, featuring technical all-weather jackets worn over delicate lace and ruffled underlayers, proving that sometimes the right jacket is, in fact, the unexpected one.

      **Hourglass Dresses**

      Hourglass silhouettes are set to be a prominent theme for fall, with peplum hems and cinched waistlines marking much of the tailoring seen on the fall 2025 runways. At Dior, this was expressed through a series of minidresses with beautifully sculpted hourglass shapes. These dresses featured either cap sleeves or thin straps, all showcasing the same peplum waists and detailed lace embroidery along their edges. While long hemlines may still dominate, these structured mini designs offer a particularly fresh approach to shorter styles.