Julian Klausner's Dries Van Noten is precisely what we all collectively wished for (and even more).

      When Dries Van Noten announced his retirement in June of last year, the fashion community was understandably taken aback and saddened. Over nearly 40 years at the helm of his eponymous brand, Van Noten consistently pursued true authenticity and unfiltered creativity, setting trends rather than adhering to them and ensuring that fashion remained enjoyable and experimental with each collection. Fortunately for brand enthusiasts, his successor has emerged from within the company, having spent six years learning under Van Noten. Julian Klausner was appointed as the new creative director in December, and on Wednesday, he unveiled his inaugural collection to a select group of attendees at Paris Fashion Week. Hint: It was well-received.

      Changing Spaces

      One of the most immediate differences between the old Dries Van Noten and the new was the venue for the show. Previously, runway presentations were held in raw, industrial settings where the clothing took precedence. In contrast, Klausner opted for a more opulent location, hosting guests at the Palais Garnier, an opera house that opened in 1875 in Paris's 9th arrondissement. The venue exudes opulence with its grand chandeliers illuminating the runway and ornate artworks and architectural details visible everywhere. "The collection was designed with the venue in mind," Klausner stated in a press release, adding, "I envisioned women traversing the opera, gathering fabrics and items, tying them with shoelaces while seeking answers to an unexplored question. Behind the curtain, where creation and practice reside."

      Craft Remains Paramount

      Craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail have always been hallmarks of the Dries Van Noten brand, and they remain firmly in place. In a recent interview with I-D, Klausner expressed his desire to maintain the emphasis on textures, colors, and prints. "The craftsmanship... we've established fantastic relationships with numerous suppliers and artisans," he shared. "That is what I aim to continue developing." This dedication is evident in the collection, featuring multi-colored tassel-adorned pieces likely sewn by hand. Garments made from strings and mismatched beads were styled beneath tailored suits, while dresses adorned with large sequins required minimal accessories to look complete.

      Round Toe's Renaissance

      For years, pointed-toe shoes have dominated the scene, offering little room for alternative shapes. However, in 2024, almond shapes began to make an appearance, followed by square-toe options and now fully rounded toes. If you're not a fan, that's unfortunate, as this toe shape was the sole style showcased in Klausner's debut collection. With its rising popularity among top brands, it seems we must embrace the trend. Rounded toes are here to stay, and I, for one, am eager to see more.

      Opulence! Opulence! Opulence!

      Last September's shows signaled the decline of quiet luxury, paving the way for a new, lavish, and maximalist aesthetic that is poised to characterize the latter part of the 2020s. This Dries Van Noten collection served as further validation of our forecasts regarding the future of vibrant luxury. The event featured clashing jacquard prints, rich jewel tones, and exaggerated silhouettes, all enhanced by the opulent Palais Garnier setting, contributing to a luxurious sensory experience.