From Victorian Collars to Aughts Skull Scarves: 5 Insights from McQueen's Fall/Winter 2025 Show

      A day after her debut collection for Givenchy, former creative director Sarah Burton marked her departure after 13 years. Meanwhile, McQueen, now under Seán McGirr's creative direction, showcased its Fall/Winter 25 runway collection at the Galerie de Géologie et de Minéralogie during Paris Fashion Week. McGirr, who took on this role in October 2023 after leading ready-to-wear at JW Anderson, is reportedly thriving, with HFTWT praising this collection as his finest to date. This fall offering builds on his Spring/Summer 25 collection, highlighting an emphasis on tailoring blended with elements of extravagance, risk, and luxury that resonate with the legacy of Alexander McQueen.

      The show opened with six impeccably fitted black suits and coats that were expertly sculpted. Victorian ruffled sleeves and peek-a-boo lace added drama to the otherwise subtle pieces, complemented by sharply pointed lace-up boots. Highlights of the collection included silk-and-shearling outerwear resembling wings, striking collars inspired by a bygone era, and beautifully crafted corsets. For more insights on McGirr's F/W 25 collection for McQueen, keep reading.

      The Comeback of the Skull Scarf One of the most discussed elements of this collection was McGirr's revival of the skull scarf, a cherished emblem in the McQueen world, fondly remembered by early 2000s fashion enthusiasts. A large red version of the skull-printed silk accessory made its debut on the runway, styled with a top-handle handbag carried by model Sara Caballero, alongside an oversized felt hat, ruffled blouse, midi skirt, and buckled ankle boots, all in black. It made a second appearance later in the show on a male model dressed in a leather jacket and gloves with slim-fit black trousers.

      Dandyism at Play "To me, dandyism is the ultimate act of adornment; deeply personal, playful, and transgressive," McGirr stated in a press release. "It raises questions of character and identity, idealism, and gender. I wanted to explore the enduring relevance of the dandy’s radical spirit in our modern world." McGirr's initial inspiration for F/W 25 stemmed from Victorian dandies like Oscar Wilde, Vesta Tilley, and Romaine Brooks, as well as Charles Dickens' book Night Walks, featuring a character strolling the streets of London at night. "It made me think about the concept of a flaneur, someone who is very self-assured and self-aware, which I believe is a core strength of McQueen," McGirr told Vogue. These inspirations culminated in the exquisite wool tailoring evident throughout the collection, complemented by intimate, luxurious details like sheer lace and fluid silks, which felt both modern and reflective of another era.

      Dark vs. Light "London, by night," the press release noted, which explains why the show commenced with 13 ensembles that were not just black in color but dark in mood as well. Darkness and emotion have always been integral to McQueen, so it’s no surprise that a sense of ornamental gloom permeated McGirr's seasonal offerings. The use of blood red in languid dresses and rich jacquards on sharply tailored suits felt appropriate for the house. The lighter silhouettes—a translucent silk georgette gown in lilac with a lace ruff, and a cream silk corsetted minidress featuring an oversized silk organza and natural shearling bolero—added a soft, ethereal element to the collection, creating a harmonious balance.

      Victorian Details Everything from the pointed toe boots to the ruff collars and lace bell sleeves connected the F/W 25 show and collection to Victorian London. The venue, part of the French National Museum of Natural History, was conceptualized by Tony Award-winning British artist Tom Scutt, who also created an installation for the space featuring Victorian architecture, setting an appropriate backdrop for the showcased garments. The jewelry included motifs inspired by "Victorian naturalism and Oscar Wilde," while the garments' shoulders and collars were designed using techniques from that era.

      Gen Z Front Row The two most highlighted attendees were Chappell Roan, attending her first fashion week in Paris, and Jeon Soyeon, leader of the South Korean K-pop group (G)I-dle. Both were dressed head to toe in McQueen, alongside other notable front-row guests like Sofia Isella, Georgia Davies, and former WWW cover star Pinkpantheress.