In Valentino's Powder Room, Maximalism Dominated, Vans Made Their Entrance, and Furry Accents Demonstrated Their Value.

      When Parker Posey, Barry Keoghan, Chappell Roan, Alexa Chung, and Nara Smith entered today’s Valentino show at Paris Fashion Week, I doubt they anticipated stepping into what the creative director Alessandro Michele described in a press release as a "public toilet." Don't get me wrong; it was undeniably the most stylish public restroom I've ever seen. However, they likely expected to see a collection filled with luxurious, maximalist designs typical of Michele's work since his tenure at Gucci, where he served as creative director for seven years. In that regard, they certainly got what they came for.

      Michele's F/W 25 Valentino collection, titled Le Méta Théatre Des Intimités, featured 80 looks modeled as they moved in and out of individual stalls within a surreal, Lynch-inspired set that resembled a cherry-red bathroom adorned with mirrors, flickering lights, and ethereal vocals by Lana Del Rey. According to the show notes, the collection was influenced by intimacy and the various influences of society on our capacity for genuine closeness. Michele explored the "duality between inside and outside, between what is intimate and what is exposed, between the personal and the collective, between what remains private and what is meant to be shared, between depth and surface." This introspection resulted in a blend of sheer lace and mesh lingerie with modest skirt and pantsuits—reflecting both transparency and concealment.

      Regardless of which side of the intimacy spectrum each look represented, bold luxury was evident with furry details, vibrant lace hosiery, blue-tinted glasses, and even a collaboration with Vans making an appearance on the runway this season.

      Maximalism is Key

      Wherever Michele goes, maximalism follows, and his second ready-to-wear collection for Valentino was no exception. One model showcased a striped skirt set with a velvet bow, layered beneath a jacket adorned with gold sequins and fur trim. She accessorized with a lace cap, matching tights, a long beaded necklace, blue knit socks, and fur booties. Another model presented a gold cropped jacket with a single black-and-white polka-dot sleeve, paired with a pink lace bodysuit and an off-white polka-dot peplum skirt. Even the simpler outfits featured eye-catching elements, from blue-tinted glasses to studded shoulder bags.

      Reportedly, the checkerboard and patterned lace-up sneakers worn by at least seven of today's Valentino models are part of an upcoming collaboration with California-based skate brand Vans, with Valentino giving the Vans Authentic silhouette a unique twist. While puddle pants concealed most designs on the runway, checkerboard styles in hot pink and in black and red were prominently featured, along with a pair in white, blue, and red printed with "I love my Vans and Valentino," incorporating emojis and logos from both brands.

      The Powder Room Concept

      Michele's exploration of intimacy led him to create "a dystopian, disturbing, Lynchian space: a temporarily autonomous area, free from conventional norms." In the show notes, he described the F/W 25 collection's powder room-themed set. "A space of appearance (H. Arendt) where intimacy reclaims its role in identity construction through dressing and undressing." The audience faced a long row of red toilet stalls, interrupted by two porcelain sinks under overhead lights and mirrors. Models moved in and out of the stalls, pausing to stand in front of the sinks and examine their reflections. The dimly lit environment and all-red setting clearly drew inspiration from David Lynch’s body of work, which was similarly referenced at Khaite and Coach this season following the passing of great television and film creators in January.

      "What Is Intimate and What Is Exposed?"

      One phrasing from Valentino's F/W 25 show notes resonated particularly well with the showcased designs: "What is intimate and what is exposed?" Throughout the presentation, models alternated between minimal clothing, primarily sheer lace lingerie, and more fully covered looks, including high-neck jackets, blazers, layered turtlenecks, puddled trousers, and a variety of headgear, from balaclavas to newsboy caps. Michele's interpretation of intimacy can be expressed in numerous sartorial ways.

      Who Attended?

      As always, Valentino attracted a fashionable A-list crowd, featuring Nara Smith, the November cover star from Who What Wear, Charlotte Lawrence, Parker Posey from The White Lotus, Chappell Roan (who appeared to be relishing her first fashion month after front-row appearances at Alexander McQueen, Ludovic de Saint Sernin, Vivienne Westwood, and Rick Owens), Barry Keoghan, and Alexa Chung. Each attendee donned their best Valentino attire, showcasing a blend of feathers, lace, and leather.