The Leading Trends from Fashion Month, as Seen by Our Editors

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      From personal collections to the resurgence of "big feminine energy," as our associate director of special projects, Kristen Nichols, referred to it, there’s plenty to analyze and discuss from fashion month. "At the start of fashion month in New York, we observed more intimate collections," Nichols noted. This trend persisted throughout the month, with designers like Louis Vuitton opting for more modest shows. "Louis Vuitton's showcase was much smaller this season, and several designers also maintained more exclusive guest lists for their debut collections," Nichols explained. She highlighted the rise of "big feminine energy." "Throughout fashion month, discussions revolved around femininity in fashion, reflected both in the garments on the runways and in the collections showcased by female artistic directors at the helm of fashion houses," Nichols said.

      In the latest episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, Nichols shares her key insights from fashion month, the leading trends on the runways, and more. For highlights from her discussion with Editorial Director Lauren Eggertsen, continue reading below. We had a podcast episode covering New York Fashion Week that was truly enjoyable. It felt like I received a real-time update on everything that took place that week. Can you remind me of some of the topics we covered, your predictions, and whether those predictions held true throughout the rest of the month?

      What we witnessed at the start of fashion month in New York were these more personal collections. Kallmeyer stands out in my mind. It was an intimate show that gathered many people connected to the brand, and other designers followed suit. I believe this trend of intimacy continued as fashion month progressed. Many prominent designers scaled down their shows. Louis Vuitton was notably smaller this season, and other designers opted for intimate guest lists for their debut collections.

      Whether we looked at Sarah Burton at Givenchy or Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford and Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten, the feeling of intimacy was undeniably present. Nostalgia also emerged as a significant theme during fashion month. This was particularly evident at Givenchy, where Sarah Burton drew inspiration from the archives, referencing Hubert de Givenchy’s debut collection from 1952. While modern interpretations were prevalent, there was a strong connection to the past and a celebration of beautiful silhouettes from the '50s.

      As for London, people eagerly anticipated its renowned creativity and innovation, known for pushing boundaries. What were some standout moments for you in the industry? What were the hot topics? The closing night of London Fashion Week featured Burberry's last show, which generated a lot of excitement. I was intrigued to see the editors’ reactions, and the consensus was that Daniel Lee delivered his most impressive collection to date. He elevated the Burberry house codes, presenting a vision influenced by British countryside style. The model lineup was stunning, with Naomi Campbell among them. The outerwear was remarkable, with several pieces from the men's collection catching my eye.

      Reflecting on the overall emerging trends this season now that everything has concluded, one that truly stood out relates back to our discussion about femininity, particularly at Prada and Miu Miu. I’m calling it "big feminine energy." Throughout fashion month, there were dialogues about femininity in fashion, visible in both the garments showcased and in the works of female artistic directors leading major fashion houses. At Miu Miu, the collection was aptly named Femininities, where the exploration of women's wardrobe symbols took center stage—think stoles, cone bras, and brooches, presented in a vivid and exaggerated manner.

      For Sarah Burton's inaugural collection with Givenchy, she honored the atelier's roots through a distinctly female perspective. The collection made it clear, especially with the elegant eveningwear, that it was designed for women. Even at Schiaparelli, a men-led house, Daniel Roseberry presented a collection focused on women, reinterpreting Old Hollywood glamour through a distinctly feminine lens. A notable trend we saw frequently on the runways was fur. Many designers embraced faux fur, showcasing various fluffy pieces, like beautiful shearling jackets seen early on at Altuzarra and Tory Burch, which were not only prominent on the runways but also made it onto many editors’ shopping lists.

      In Milan, designers like Prada, Fendi, and Armani displayed similar styles, while Miu Miu, Chloé, and Valentino included these elements in Paris as well. It’s interesting to observe that last year we discussed the "mob wife" aesthetic with grand coats. This time, the focus spread across items like stoles, collars, and charms attached to handbags, making its presence felt in numerous collections this season.

      This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.