Icons Only: The Rise of the Chanel Slingback as the Most Renowned Shoe in Fashion

      Welcome to Icons Only, a comprehensive exploration by Who What Wear UK into timeless pieces that are once again gaining attention. This month, Ava Gilchrist from Who What Wear UK examines the ascent of the most iconic footwear in history: the Chanel Slingback. It’s difficult to envision a time before the introduction of Chanel's slingback shoes. The two-tone design, complete with a rounded toe and a delicate ankle strap, has become a hallmark of the French brand—a symbol of grace, comfort, and Parisian sophistication. These attributes have contributed to the style’s widespread presence, seen everywhere from the runways and the front rows of the Grand Palais during luxurious seasonal displays to the latest rising star being photographed on the Boulevard de la Croisette at the annual Cannes Film Festival. Remarkably, their debut dates back to 1957. Just a few years after Queen Elizabeth’s coronation and a decade ahead of Mary Quant’s miniskirts taking over Soho, the first version of the shoe made its debut, altering the landscape of designer footwear forever. "With four pairs of shoes, I can travel the world," the legendary designer famously stated regarding this style. As noted in the accompanying book for the first exhibition dedicated to her life and legacy, Gabrielle Chanel: Fashion Manifesto, the original offering was a set of four designed for various occasions: "Black-toed for daytime and general wear, navy blue for summer, brown for a ‘sporty’ look, and gold for evenings." Today, Chanel slingbacks are available in a variety of materials, from vibrant tweed to sparkling glitter fabric and grosgrain, demonstrating the shoe's lasting influence and its adaptability by whoever leads the house. Its ongoing allure reflects the timeless femininity that Chanel embodies. Regardless of the prevailing trends or individual tastes, the brand's slingbacks remain an enduring fashion emblem.

      But how have they transitioned from a symbol of Chanel’s revival to a recognized icon in their own right? Alongside signature items such as the renowned No.5 fragrance and the quilted 2.55 handbag, what sets the slingbacks apart? Ahead, fashion historians, esteemed Chanel collectors, and style psychologists explore their origins and assess their lasting significance.

      Back in Time: The History of Chanel Slingbacks

      Just 18 years prior to the launch of the Chanel slingbacks in 1957, the iconic former milliner had stepped away from fashion amid the military turmoil sweeping Europe. From her accommodations at The Ritz and her apartment above her 31 Rue Cambon boutique and atelier, Chanel observed the world transforming around her. "Chanel only reopened after World War II in 1954, so the time when these shoes were introduced was very much a rebuilding phase for the house," explains Emma McClendon, a New York-based fashion historian, author, and curator. "A crucial context for the shoe is its comparison with Roger Vivier stiletto heels, designed for Dior to complement his highly feminine, corseted A-line silhouettes," she adds. "In comparison, Chanel's slingback shoe is significantly more comfortable—it features a lower block heel and a rounded toe, contrasting with more pointed styles. These design features make the shoes easier to walk in." Chanel had spent the interwar years establishing her house's reputation as the epitome of modern dressing for women who sought comfort without constriction, favoring clothes that allowed for movement and breathability in the fast-paced urban lifestyle.

      Dr. Carolyn Mair, a fashion business consultant and author of The Psychology of Fashion, supports this context surrounding the shoe’s creation. “The launch of the slingback represented a sophisticated rebellion against constricting fashion norms. The brand was reaffirming its identity as a modernist vision of functional luxury rooted in ease and subtle sophistication, adapting to the evolving concept of femininity in the post-WWII era.” So, what strategies could Chanel employ to distinguish herself from competitors and separate her designs from the historical styles? She drew inspiration from unexpected sources, notably the glamorous figures of Old Hollywood like Marilyn Monroe and pin-up stars such as Bettie Page.

      “Their personas embodied a curvy, overtly sensual, and performative femininity. Within this context, slingbacks were associated with seduction and glamour rather than the traditional elegance of Parisian fashion,” Mair elaborates. “For Chanel, reinterpreting this silhouette represented a bold shift, transforming a shoe synonymous with sexiness into one symbolizing discretion.” Altering something risqué into a more socially acceptable form was quite a challenge. “It wasn't well received initially,” McClendon notes. “In general, the fashion press was critical of Chanel's tweed suits and designs upon her return.” However, that audacity is partly what created a lasting impact. "Creating a shoe that revealed the heel aligned with Chanel’s legacy of 'controlled provocation', which challenged fashion norms while remaining within acceptable limits. The slingback revealed just enough skin to feel slightly daring without crossing into vulgarity