How the Costume Designer for Hacks Began Her Career

      Welcome to The Who What Wear Podcast. Consider it your direct connection to the designers, stylists, beauty professionals, editors, and influencers who are defining the fashion and beauty landscape. Be sure to subscribe to The Who What Wear Podcast on Apple Podcasts and Spotify. Kathleen Felix-Hager entered the world of costume design unexpectedly when she joined the costume department for the 1995 film Waterworld. "I grew up around the film industry," Felix-Hager recalled. "My stepfather was involved in it, so I had some familiarity, but the inner workings of a costume department were completely new to me, and [I] received the best education possible on that film." Since then, the Emmy-winning costume designer has worked on critically acclaimed films and television series like Veep and Hacks. In the latest episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, Felix-Hager discusses how she began her journey in the entertainment industry, her process for landing the job on Hacks, and more. For highlights from the conversation, continue reading below.

      I'd love to hear a bit about what brought you to this show. I've heard you sort of stumbled into costume design by accident. Is that true?

      Yes, very much so. My first job was on a film called Waterworld in 1994, where I joined the costume department and learned on the job. I was around the film industry growing up, since my stepfather was involved in it, so I had some awareness. However, the details of working in a costume department were completely new to me, and I had the best learning experience on that film. I was so inexperienced that I absorbed everything like a sponge, and I fell in love with it.

      At what point during that initial experience did you realize you had a talent for costume design and wanted to pursue it as a career?

      At that moment, I didn’t think of it as a career because it was so new to me, and I was thrilled to soak up as much knowledge as I could. Each job I took led to another one, and I loved the idea of storytelling through costumes, which I found fascinating. I was a voracious reader as a child and still am, allowing me to visualize a script in a special way, seeing how it can advance a narrative. That process was captivating and motivating for me, so I just kept moving forward.

      How did you specifically land the job on Hacks?

      Morgan Sackett, the producer of Hacks, was also the producer on Veep, where I had previously worked with him. One day, he called and said he had a few scripts he wanted me to read for a new show featuring Jean Smart. After reading the first three scripts, I met with Morgan and the showrunners—Lucia [Aniello], Jen [Statsky], and Paul [W. Downs]—and we really hit it off. I strongly connected with the scripts and the relationship between the two women at different stages in their lives, and I could visualize Deborah Vance clearly in my mind.

      This was in 2020, during the height of COVID, specifically in the summer. I was uncertain about how we would manage the production, but creating something fresh and exciting during such a strange time was incredibly grounding for me. I’m really thankful for that aspect.

      We need to discuss Deborah's style, which has evolved between season one and season four. I understand you drew some inspiration for Deborah's look from your grandmother. Can you share a bit about your grandmother's style and how it influenced Deborah's character?

      My grandmother, Mary, was a very vibrant woman who enjoyed smoking, drinking, and listening to jazz. She always had her hair and makeup done, and even in a sweatsuit, she made sure it was matching and somewhat embellished. She had a flair for the dramatic. Although she is no longer with us, I still have a large collection of her vintage costume jewelry, which I used for Deborah. I believe my grandmother would be thrilled to see that. In discussions with Jean about Deborah Vance, we embraced the philosophy that more is more. We wanted to incorporate as much jewelry, pattern, color, and feathers as possible. In the beginning of season one, Jean was somewhat hesitant about some of my suggestions. She seemed interested but would often say, "Oh, honey, I can't wear that." I would respond, "Well, it's just the two of us here, so let's try it on and see how it looks." After trying things on, she would look at me and say, "Well, you were right." After a few instances like that, she grew to trust my judgment, and I would put looks together, and she would comment, "That's a lot, but I trust you." We had fun experimenting with the larger-than-life nature of Deborah Vance.

      This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.