I Tried the Trending Manicure on TikTok—My Nails Look Incredible

      As a beauty editor, I've experienced countless manicures. I've likely sampled every type available—hard gel, soft gel, builder gel, and classic nail polish, among others. For quite a while now, I’ve been consistently getting some form of gel on my nails, and I've come to recognize the distinction between an exceptional manicure and one that's merely average. Honestly, there are only a few manicures that have truly impressed me. Some of these have been done by the celebrity nail artist Julie Kandalec, whose intricate designs always leave me in awe, along with a few remarkable manicures from Manhattan nail studios like Vanity Projects, JinSoon, Paintbox, Chillhouse, and others. Many of these services have been luxurious versions of what I typically expect from a manicure: gel soak-off, cuticle care, soaking, and, of course, gel application.

      When I first noticed the Russian manicure trending on my TikTok feed, I was instantly curious. Although Russian manicures aren't a new concept, their popularity has been rising, and their ban in some states only piqued my interest further. I decided to make an appointment at Gilded Ritual in Tribeca, Manhattan, to experience a Russian manicure for myself. Gilded Ritual is a full-service spa that specializes in Russian manicures, setting it apart. Emma Eskander, the spa director, addressed all my burning questions, and I received my Russian manicure from the spa's top manicurist, Krystina. Continue reading for everything you need to know about Russian manicures and details about my experience.

      What is a Russian manicure?

      One key distinction between a Russian manicure and a standard manicure is that the former employs a dry technique. "Using water makes your nails softer, which can lead to breaks or chips," Eskander explains. Additionally, Russian manicures don't utilize acetone; any previous gel polish is removed with an electric file. A significant difference lies in how Russian manicures handle the cuticles. Technicians also use the electric file to prep the cuticles before trimming them. After filing down the cuticles, they then use a nipper. According to Eskander, this method reduces any pulling on the cuticle, resulting in a longer-lasting effect.

      Russian manicures also prioritize building the apex of the nail, a process called polish alignment. "Not everyone's nails have a perfect arch," Eskander notes. "Some have flat nail beds or dips. When manicurists apply the base, they create the illusion of a flawless arch on the nail. Sometimes they'll even flip your hand upside down to ensure the products settle in the center for that perfect arch."

      How long do Russian manicures last?

      A major advantage of Russian manicures is their extended duration compared to traditional gel options. While a standard gel manicure lasts about two to three weeks, a Russian manicure can remain intact for three to five weeks. Eskander explains that this is because the cuticles are buffed away, allowing manicurists to apply polish underneath them. You should also be prepared for a longer service time—Russian manicures typically take two hours.

      Why are Russian manicures controversial?

      The American Academy of Dermatology warns against cutting cuticles entirely, stating that "trimming or cutting your cuticles makes it easier for bacteria and germs to enter your body and cause infections." Some states prohibit nail technicians from cutting cuticles altogether. Though these warnings may seem alarming, Eskander reassures that when performed by a highly skilled manicurist, Russian manicures are safe. Technicians trained in Russian manicure techniques undergo extensive training and stay abreast of the latest methods. "My staff trains outside the spa at least once a month to stay current on new techniques," Eskander adds. "We ensure they are always up to date."

      What is it like to get a Russian manicure?

      I felt a bit anxious before my appointment, but I quickly realized I was in capable hands with my manicurist, Krystina. I was impressed with how efficiently she removed my previous gel polish using an electric file. The entire process felt meticulous and careful. After it was completed, I was astonished at how great my nails looked—in fact, I can't recall ever receiving so many compliments on them.

      Shop my favorite red nail polishes for a DIY manicure:

      - Olive & June Nail Polish in ES

      - OPI Nail Lacquer in Big Apple Red

      - CHANEL Longwear Nail Color

      - Essie Nail Polish in Not Red-y For Bed

      This story was initially published at an earlier date and has been updated since then.