It Turns Out That Salmon-Sperm Skincare Is Not Just a Trend—Here's Why It's the Surprising Shortcut to Radiant Skin.

      Having spent more than ten years in the beauty industry, it's understandable that I approach most skincare trends and touted miracle ingredients with a fair amount of scepticism. I've witnessed countless popular formulations and viral products on TikTok rise and fade, so I know that most of what’s trendy one moment will likely be left unused in bathroom cabinets shortly after. However, as a beauty editor, it’s essential for me to navigate through glossy marketing and influencer endorsements to identify emerging ingredients that warrant closer inspection. When I noticed a surge in Google searches for PDRN this year, my interest was certainly piqued.

      You may be aware of the infamous "salmon sperm facials"—treatments that involve injecting polynucleotides into the skin to aid regeneration. PDRN represents a specific kind of polynucleotide. Initially, I admit I found the idea of incorporating salmon sperm into my skincare routine a bit amusing, but when reputable dermatologists began discussing its rejuvenating qualities and aestheticians highlighted its soothing effects post-treatment, I realized I could no longer overlook it.

      “PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide, is a compound derived from trout or salmon DNA that has been studied for its regenerative capabilities,” says dermatologist Dr. Sonia Khorana. While PDRN has traditionally been used in injectable therapies at aesthetic clinics for purposes ranging from wound healing to collagen boosting, its appearance in skincare products indicates a larger trend—PDRN products are on the verge of becoming mainstream. “In topical skincare, PDRN is valued for its anti-inflammatory properties, ability to support barrier repair, and gradual improvement of skin texture,” notes Dr. Khorana. “It’s especially popular in Asia, where injectable forms are utilized in skin rejuvenation treatments, and we are now seeing it integrated into serums and moisturizers.”

      Curious? To gain deeper insights into PDRN’s efficacy, I consulted two experts and compiled a list of the top PDRN products currently available.

      What Is PDRN?

      PDRN stands for polydeoxyribonucleotide, but what does that entail? Essentially, it is a DNA fragment typically extracted from the gonad cells of salmon or trout (hence the salmon sperm reference) and purified for medical and cosmetic applications. “These DNA fragments promote tissue repair, diminish inflammation, and enhance fibroblast activity, which are crucial for collagen and elastin production,” explains Dr. Shin-Young Cho, medical director and consultant dermatologist at Future Care Medical.

      The research on PDRN is promising. “Clinical studies have demonstrated that PDRN can expedite wound healing and post-treatment recovery, stimulate collagen and elastin production, enhance skin texture and hydration, and soothe sensitive or inflamed skin due to its anti-inflammatory effects,” Dr. Cho elaborates.

      PDRN vs. Polynucleotides

      Recently, there has been considerable discussion online regarding polynucleotides, especially regarding rejuvenating injectable treatments such as the salmon sperm facial. While PDRN is indeed a type of polynucleotide, it is not exactly the same. “Polynucleotides are extensive chains of DNA fragments that aid skin repair and regeneration, whereas PDRN denotes a specific purified, low-molecular-weight DNA fraction that allows for better absorption by the skin,” Dr. Khorana clarifies.

      Since PDRN possesses shorter DNA chains, it acts more quickly as a skincare ingredient. “In my clinical experience, polynucleotides are generally utilized for long-term rejuvenation, while PDRN is often selected for post-procedure recovery, sensitive skin, or targeted healing," states Dr. Cho. Thus, if you seek a skincare solution to quickly soothe inflammation or assist in skin repair, PDRN products may be an excellent choice.

      Which Skin Types Will Benefit from PDRN?

      The good news is that PDRN is generally considered a well-tolerated skincare ingredient suitable for most skin types. “It’s gentle yet effective, even for sensitive skin, but tends to be ideal for individuals with dull, dehydrated, or aging skin, as well as those with concerns regarding texture, fine lines, or pigmentation,” Dr. Khorana explains.

      Nevertheless, both experts emphasized that anyone with a known fish allergy should steer clear of PDRN products entirely. While Dr. Khorana mentions that the protein triggering reactions in fish is removed during the purification process for polynucleotide injections in clinics, it’s uncertain if the allergenic protein is eliminated during the topical PDRN purification. “Since it isn’t a medical device, it would depend on the brand and the lab’s purification method, so exercising caution if you have a fish allergy is advisable,” she cautions.

      Are PDRN Products Actually Worth It?

      Though much of the current evidence on PDRN stems from its use in injectable treatments, the experts I spoke with agreed that