Not Panthère, Not Tank: This 100-Year-Old Cartier Classic Has Just Become the Most Coveted Accessory for Your Wrist

      They say necessity is the mother of invention, but if you examine the most notable designs in watches and jewellery, you'll find that these creations weren't driven by need. Instead, these iconic forms draw inspiration from everyday items that often go unnoticed by those who aren't paying attention. The Cartier Baignoire watch is one such hallmark that begins with this basic premise. Translated to "bathtub" in English, its recognizable oval shape is influenced by the smooth lines of these relaxation spaces, turning a common area of comfort into something far more elegant. After all, who among us doesn’t think of luxury as a form of self-indulgence?

      However, the Baignoire isn’t primarily about indulgence. There are many other Cartier items that convey this idea more effectively. (The screw-sealed Love bracelet falls into this category, though someone like Dakota Johnson, recognized for her fondness for baths, may see it differently. As she mentioned to the Wall Street Journal, "I will get in a bathtub at any moment, any time of the day.") Rather, akin to the shape it imitates, it serves as a masterclass in passing time—an apt description for a timepiece, wouldn't you agree? Brynn Wallner characterizes it as a "proof of concept for observing trends and intentionally crafting something from them."

      What Is the Cartier Baignoire Watch? The Cartier Baignoire watch carries a style that dates back over a century, yet it has truly gained recognition in the world of horology only in the last few years. Featuring soft curves, a beaded crown adorned with a sapphire cabochon, a silvered dial, and a quartz movement, the watch also comes in a smaller model. Its subtle elegance makes it an appealing choice for fashion-conscious individuals looking for something both noticeable and modern.

      In contrast, when compared to the Cartier Panthère or Tank, it remained relatively unnoticed for decades. Wallner, a writer and watch expert who identifies as a “femme-forward resource” under the name Dimepiece, began her platform in 2020 amid the coronavirus pandemic. She disrupted the industry with her insightful, relatable commentary at a time when horology didn’t cater to female consumers. This gap allowed Wallner to emerge, armed with humor and a keen eye for celebrity watch trends and emerging styles. Even before owning a watch while managing her account—a deficit she quickly remedied by purchasing a Cartier Tank Française to mark her platform's first anniversary and her 31st birthday—Wallner shared over a Zoom call from her New York apartment that it was the seldom-discussed Baignoire that captivated her interest.

      The History of the Cartier Baignoire Watch Created in 1912, the Cartier Baignoire initially went unnoticed after Louis Cartier, grandson of founder Louis-François Cartier, designed the shape for Russian Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna. Its rounded edges and small face were quite innovative for that time. In 1958, it entered production and was officially named the Baignoire in 1974, gaining traction with early admirers like French New Wave actress Jeanne Moreau. These endorsements undeniably contributed to the Baignoire's status as Cartier's best-kept secret—a reputation that persisted into the 2020s.

      "A year and a half before starting Dimepiece, a friend from Sotheby's introduced me to Alan Bedwell, a professional watch dealer known as Foundwell," Wallner recounts. "He has been in the business for 20 years, and during our initial watch 'date,' he brought a pouch of ladies' watches for a show-and-tell. Among them was the Cartier Baignoire, which I had never encountered before, despite extensive research. I exclaimed, 'What is this watch? It's so cute. I'm obsessed.' He informed me it was the Cartier Baignoire, named after a bathtub. My investigation revealed that, despite the fact Catherine Deneuve wore it and it boasted this cool '60s design, no one was talking about it." So, I began to post about it, saying, 'Oh my god, the Cartier Baignoire is so cute; why hasn’t anyone told me!' Others began to notice as well after I highlighted it. At that time, these watches were significantly undervalued on the secondary market. There was little interest in them, which is why Alan had his collection for so long."

      Wallner's promotion of the Baignoire certainly increased its desirability, and a little over a year later, Cartier solidified this online excitement with a grand release. "Cartier was observant of what was happening online, so in 2023 at Watches and Wonders [an annual trade event in Geneva], their major release was the Baignoire on the bangle. It marked the reintroduction of the Baignoire into the Cartier lineup. Following that, the Baignoire took off, receiving the same waitlist attention that