Not Panthère, Not Tank: This Centenarian Cartier Classic Has Just Emerged as the Most Coveted Accessory for Your Wrist
They say necessity is the mother of invention, but if you closely examine the most remarkable watch and jewellery designs, you'll see these creations aren't born out of obligation. Rather, these iconic shapes draw inspiration from everyday objects that might be overlooked by the untrained observer. The Cartier Baignoire watch exemplifies this concept, as its name translates to "bathtub" in English. The watch's recognizable oval shape is influenced by the smooth lines of these water-filled sanctuaries, elevating a common source of relaxation into a symbol of sophistication. After all, who among us doesn’t view genuine luxury as an act of self-pampering?
However, the Baignoire is not solely focused on indulgence. Cartier offers numerous other pieces that encapsulate this idea more effectively. (For instance, the screw-sealed Love bracelet fits this category well, though someone like Dakota Johnson — known for her affinity for baths — might relate to it differently; she has expressed to the Wall Street Journal, "I will get in a bathtub at any moment, any time of the day.") Instead, much like the object it resembles, the Baignoire serves as an exquisite ode to the passage of time. This is an apt characterization for a timepiece, wouldn't you agree? Brynn Wallner describes it as a "proof of concept of observing and intentionally crafting something from what people are discussing."
What Is the Cartier Baignoire Watch? The Cartier Baignoire watch is a design that dates back over a hundred years, but it has only recently gained recognition in the world of horology. This timepiece features gentle curves, a beaded crown adorned with a sapphire cabochon, a silvered dial, and a quartz movement. With its smaller size and delicate finish, its understated elegance makes it an appealing choice for fashionable individuals seeking something both striking and modern.
In comparison to the Cartier Panthère or Tank, the Baignoire has certainly remained somewhat underappreciated for decades. Wallner, who operates as a "femme-forward resource" under the name Dimepiece, launched her platform in 2020 during the pandemic and provided insightful yet approachable commentary on the watch industry, which had not been catering to female consumers at the time. This gap allowed Wallner to shine with her sharp wit and keen eye for identifying trending styles. Despite never owning a watch while managing the account, which she later rectified with a Cartier Tank Française to celebrate her platform's first anniversary and her 31st birthday, Wallner shared with me via Zoom from her New York apartment that it was the seldom-discussed Baignoire that captured her interest.
The History of the Cartier Baignoire Watch Created in 1912, the Cartier Baignoire initially lived in obscurity after Louis Cartier, grandson of the brand’s founder Louis-François Cartier, designed its shape for Russian Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna. The watch's rounded edges and small face were groundbreaking at the time, and it entered production in 1958, officially earning the name Baignoire in 1974 with early adopters like French New Wave actress Jeanne Moreau contributing to its allure. These endorsements helped the Baignoire maintain its status as one of Cartier's best-kept secrets, a reputation that endured into the 2020s.
"A year and a half before starting Dimepiece, a friend at Sotheby's introduced me to Alan Bedwell, a professional watch dealer known as Foundwell," Wallner recounts. "He has been in the business for 20 years, and during our first watch 'date', he brought a small pouch of ladies' watches for a show and tell. Among those was the Cartier Baignoire, which I had never seen or heard of, despite my extensive research. I exclaimed, 'What is this watch? It's so cute. I'm obsessed.' He told me it was a Cartier Baignoire named after a bathtub. I was astonished that, despite Catherine Deneuve wearing it and its cool '60s design, nobody seemed to be talking about it." This realization prompted her to share her excitement online, leading others to take notice as well. At that time, these watches were undervalued in the resale market, which is why Alan had his collection for so long.
Wallner's efforts certainly increased the Baignoire's appeal, and shortly thereafter, Cartier capitalized on this online interest with a high-profile release. "Cartier was observing the online developments, and at 2023's Watches and Wonders [a yearly trade event in Geneva], they introduced the Baignoire on a bangle. This marked its reintroduction to the Cartier lineup. Following this, the Baignoire gained significant traction, with a waitlist akin to those for popular men's watches. It became difficult to purchase; you couldn’t simply stroll into a Cartier store to buy one as they were sold out, which led many to wonder, 'How do I get
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Not Panthère, Not Tank: This Centenarian Cartier Classic Has Just Emerged as the Most Coveted Accessory for Your Wrist
For more than a hundred years, the Cartier Baignoire watch has quietly attracted a dedicated fanbase of French cinema stars and subtly affluent celebrities. It has now achieved the status of a contemporary icon. In this piece, a fashion writer explores the watch's history and legacy, inspired by its bathtub design.
