From Copenhagen to Paris: Here Are the Up-and-Coming Brands That Caught My Attention During Fashion Month
While I always feel a thrill watching the fashion month showcases from established brands, what I anticipate the most each season are the emerging designers. They often leave me the most inspired, with their bold collections and presentations that resemble performance art. It’s an exciting time to uncover new creativity, whether it's a well-known name pushing boundaries or encountering a designer I’ve yet to discover. This type of revelation is one of my favorite aspects of my work, and fashion month is ideal for it. As always, these runway shows affect how we approach shopping for the upcoming season. For S/S 25, I highlighted the rising designers I admired at New York Fashion Week. This time, I’m broadening my attention to the full F/W 26 fashion month schedule. Below, explore the designers who made an impression on me from the latest runway shows in cities from Copenhagen to Paris.
Fashion Month F/W 26 Emerging Designers
(Image credit: Launchmetrics/Spotlight) Noteworthy brands: Nicklas Skovgaard, OpéraSport, Caro Editions, Paolina Russo
Copenhagen Fashion Week consistently showcases some of the most innovative brands. This season, I was particularly drawn to Nicklas Skovgaard, OpéraSport, Caro Editions, and Paolina Russo. Caro Editions truly exemplified the glamorous dressing trend and stood out as one of the week’s best collections. I'm also currently considering an OpéraSport baseball cap or bag for myself.
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(Image credit: Launchmetrics/Spotlight; Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen; Mel Usine.) Noteworthy brands: Gabe Gordon, Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen, Mel Usine, Jane Wade, Colleen Allen, Pipenco
Living in New York, my local fashion week is naturally New York Fashion Week. At Gabe Gordon, knitwear remained a hallmark, and there was a timely nod to ice skating too. Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen’s post-show press release referenced "pre-industrial pregnancy corsets, sanitary belts, and maternity wear," using materials like secondhand linens and vintage nylon to realize this vision. Mel Usine, which debuted last spring, continued to build its foundation with a second collection inspired by historical research, French folklore, and medieval attire. Meanwhile, Jane Wade’s The Summit extended her workwear perspective into outdoor performance and expedition wear, featuring a shoe collaboration with Sorel. Others who made a significant impression on me include Colleen Allen, who has emerged as a favorite at NYFW among editors, and Pipenco, a unique and fantastical line created by Romanian designer Lorena Pipenco.
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(Image credit: Launchmetrics/Spotlight) Noteworthy brands: Conner Ives, Chopova Lowena, Tolu Coker, Petra Fagerström, Pauline Dujancourt, Lucila Safdie
London Fashion Week is possibly my favorite segment of the fashion month. In addition to renowned names like Burberry and Vivienne Westwood, I always enjoy following the designers from Central Saint Martins, along with other emerging brands each season. For F/W 26, my favorite shows included Conner Ives, Chopova Lowena, Tolu Coker, Petra Fagerström, Pauline Dujancourt, and Lucila Safdie, many of which are available at Nordstrom, Net-a-Porter, and Farfetch.
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(Image credit: Launchmetrics/Spotlight) Noteworthy brands: Avavav, Florania, Institution by Galib Gassanoff, Casa Preti
I enjoy seeing what Avavav presents at each Milan Fashion Week. The label consistently produces theatrical (and frequently satirical) shows with an absurdist design approach. Founded in Florence and now based in Stockholm, it has gained a reputation for its playful runway displays, and this season was no exception. Additionally, Florania, Institution by Galib Gassanoff, and Casa Preti were particularly distinctive.
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(Image credit: Launchmetrics/Spotlight) Noteworthy brands: Julie Kegels, Hodakova, Matières Fécales, Vaquera
In addition to LFW, Paris Fashion Week holds a special place in my heart. Some standout moments included baby blue tights at Julie Kegels, a makeshift bra crafted from teacups at Hodakova, stunningly extravagant couture-inspired designs at Matières Fécales, and an unexpected take on bridalwear with a baby's breath bouquet at Vaquera, as seen above. As for integrating these brands into my own wardrobe, Vaquera's Pretty Boy T-Shirt, featuring a graphic of a Chihuahua (my favorite dog), is currently on my wish list.
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