"Ethereal, Intellectually Captivating, and Subtly Sensuous": The BTS Analysis of Maude Apatow's Gorgeous May Aesthetic…

      In case you missed it, Maude Apatow is featured as Who What Wear's cover star for May, and I’m about to dive into the glamorous hair and makeup details behind each of her stunning looks. Makeup artist Alexandra French describes the beauty aesthetic as "ethereal, intelligent, and subtly sensual." The aim was to achieve soft skin and hair, with gentle structure and just enough definition to complement the styling and photography without overshadowing Maude herself. Below, French and Apatow’s hairstylist Rena Calhoun share their process, essential products, and favorite moments from the shoot day. Keep reading!

      Calhoun notes that the inspiration for Apatow's various hairstyles resulted from the team's collaborative effort. "For every look, we took the time to connect on what felt right in that moment, allowing things to evolve intuitively," she explains. "It was about working together with a mutual creative spirit."

      French agrees, saying, "Collaboration on set is always one of my favorite aspects of the process. For a shoot like this, everything should feel cohesive; from the start, there was an ongoing conversation between hair, styling, nails, and makeup—the goal was to create a unified emotional tone and visual language rather than isolated standout moments."

      With the styling achieving a wonderful balance of softness and structured graphic elements, French wanted to mirror that in the makeup, keeping the skin soft while subtly sculpting around the eyes and cheeks. "Rena and I aimed for nothing to look overly 'done,'" she clarifies. "Every adjustment was made with the lighting and photography in mind."

      Artistic restraint was also crucial. "Sometimes, the most impactful beauty looks come from knowing when to stop adding," she says. "Maude naturally brings so much atmosphere and emotion to an image, so the makeup was focused on enhancing that energy rather than competing with it." If the final images come across as timeless, soft, and slightly dreamlike, that was, according to French, precisely the intention.

      On shoot days, especially when crafting multiple looks as she did for Apatow, Calhoun prefers to keep product use minimal to keep the hair flexible throughout the day and easily transformable. "It’s about maintaining movement and being able to pivot quickly without any buildup," she explains. However, one staple she begins with is the Virtue Labs Create Style-Setting Hair Volumizing Primer ($40), which she applies to damp hair. "It provides the perfect foundation; it’s lightweight, workable, and offers just enough memory to support whatever direction the shoot takes."

      In addition to the Virtue Labs Volumizing Primer—affectionately called "the scaffolding" of each look—Calhoun recommends Oribe's Superfine Strong Hold Hairspray ($46), which she considers "the absolute best hairspray" for its remarkable versatility and light yet strong hold. If she wants to add quick texture, she'll grab Bumble and bumble's Surf Infusion Sea Salt Spray ($36). "A good salt spray works on many hair types to give it a lived-in feel—it helps avoid that overly styled appearance I sometimes wish to steer clear of."

      For this shoot, French aimed for the makeup to feel cinematic and emotionally understated—polished, yet still intimate and relatable. "Maude has such delicate, expressive features, so the process was really about enhancing what’s already there rather than transforming her." Vintage fashion editorials also inspired her approach. "Think soft analog photography and that dreamy, slightly surreal sensation one gets from viewing old magazine campaigns," she explains. "One image feels very earthy and romantic, while another is more graphic and experimental with color and light. The makeup had to resonate beautifully in both realms."

      Unsurprisingly, skin preparation was a significant aspect of French's process, as she aimed for Apatow's skin to appear hydrated and alive, with a light-reflective quality without being overly shiny. For makeup, she achieved a sheer complexion by combining a lightweight skin tint with moisturizer, applying it using a damp sponge and a small buffing brush. Concealer was applied only where necessary, mainly around the center of the face, to maintain dimensionality and a natural look. "I lightly set only the areas requiring longevity while allowing the high points of the face to retain their natural sheen," she notes.

      For Apatow's eyes, French started with minimal makeup, using playful, spiked lashes for a ‘60s-inspired look before transitioning to a more dramatic smoky-eye later in the day. "My favorite features to highlight on Maude are definitely her eyes and bone structure. She has an amazing ability to convey emotion subtly, so I aim for the makeup not to distract from that."

      "For lips, I applied a neutral rose tone by pressing it into the lips with my fingers instead of using the tube," French shares. "This approach created a softer, more lived-in effect—the overall application was very layered