The Gritti Palace! 15th-Century Palaces! Bars by the Canal! Discover How to Experience Venice as a Local.
Max Hurd serves as the Editor in Residence for Who What Wear UK and is an art director, tastemaker, interior stylist, and creative consultant based in London. He collaborates with top luxury brands such as Manolo Blahnik, Farfetch, Asprey, Cartier, H&M, and Patrón Tequila. His vibrant style, which he likens to "Oscar Wilde meets Marie-Antoinette by way of a Brazilian bordello," allows him to curate, write, and create across the realms of interiors, fashion, and culture.
Venice is, quite simply, unparalleled. It is a fantasy enveloped in mystery and laced with legend. This city exudes pure magic, precariously balancing on wooden stilts driven into the lagoon's seabed. In a world filled with monotony, it stands alone as a floating city that truly needs to be experienced to be believed.
In its prime, Venice was the crown jewel of the Adriatic. Today, some argue it has dwindled to a floating museum. Yet, I staunchly believe that La Serenissima (the traditional name and formal title for the Republic of Venice) continues to thrive, despite the throngs of tourists and the city's attempts at Disneyfication. This realization struck me during my recent visit for the Venice Biennale opening. Venice retains its ability to astonish and inspire, but knowing where to look is essential. While exploring every storied city often involves getting lost and uncovering its layers, in Venice—with its numerous choices—having a guide can be beneficial. Here, I humbly share my recommendations in the hopes that, like me, you fall madly in love with the Lady of the Lagoon.
An Editor-in-Residence's 2026 Travel Guide to Venice
1. Where to Stay
Venice consists of six districts, each offering a unique perspective of the city. My first piece of advice when choosing accommodation is to move past the common idea of being "central." Venice is compact, and much of the joy lies in simply wandering, so don't worry too much about the distance of your hotel or Airbnb from the Piazza San Marco. (Even a 30-minute stroll to the Doge's Palace is an enchanting journey.) Traditionally, my favorite area for lodging has been San Polo—the location of the iconic Rialto Bridge and luxurious hotels like the Aman that line the Grand Canal—but during my last visit, I stayed in Cannaregio, which was marvelous. It felt far more authentically "Venetian" than other areas, brimming with hidden restaurants and bars, where you can enjoy breakfast along one of the lesser-known canals and pretend to be a local. Venice has an abundance of hotels, but here are three that I believe are truly exceptional.
- The Gritti Palace: Incredibly expensive, yet worth every penny. The Gritti has elevated itself beyond merely being a place to sleep. Staying at the Gritti, like at the Chateau Marmont or Claridge’s, confers status. These hotels epitomize the glamour of their city, making a stay there a privilege. The rooms are beautifully decorated in the Venetian Palazzo style, and the legendary canal-side bar is possibly the best cocktail spot globally.
- Orient Express Venezia at The Palazzo Donà Giovannelli: This newly opened establishment is situated at the entrance of Cannaregio and has quickly made a name for itself since its April opening. With a far more contemporary design than the Gritti, the Orient Express team has revitalized this 15th-century palace impressively.
- Hotel Cipriani: An icon in its own right. Found on Giudecca, a calm and smaller island in the Venetian Lagoon with views of St Mark’s Square, Hotel Cipriani is ideal for those seeking tranquility away from the city's commotion. Personally, I would only consider staying here in the summer, as the outdoor areas, including the hotel pool, truly shine during that season. It also features a spa and stunning gardens, which are hard to find in Venice.
2. Where to Eat
You know you’re on the right holiday track when your biggest question is, "Where shall I eat?" There’s a common but mistaken belief that Venetian cuisine is limited compared to Neapolitan and Sicilian fare, likely because one of the city’s specialties is cicchetti—small snacks traditionally associated with gondoliers. Personally, I adore Venetian food. While the many fried options and lagoon-based specialties might deter some, nothing compares to a true Italian osteria or trattoria.
- Da’Ivo: Although it's one of Venice’s more renowned trattorias, it shouldn't be dismissed as "too touristy." Like many excellent restaurants here, it is not large but has a cozy atmosphere perfect for dinner. I'd suggest skipping the cocktails in favor of their excellent wine and arriving via the watergate if possible.
- Antiche Carampane: This is possibly my
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