Florence Pugh discusses Method Perfuming and the fragrance that has come to represent her "invisible DNA."
On a clear spring afternoon in a terraced suite at Six Senses Rome, Florence Pugh relaxes on a bouclé sofa, chatting about the unusual scent of her dog's feet. "It's not a pleasant odor, but it's a fascinating one," she remarks, laughing with her signature gravelly voice. I catch the award-winning actress during her fourth consecutive hour of press interviews, yet she appears impeccably put together in a white button-down and a black mesh skirt, her bob neatly styled back and her skin glowing as if kissed by the sun. With about 50 minutes before she must return to the glam chair for dinner preparations, it seems like she could leisurely share her favorite scents if not for the publicists in the corner, waiting to jump in. To complete her list: self-tanner, the smell of a park at 4 p.m., garlic and onion cooking on the stove, and recently, Max Mara's Le Parfum.
Pugh, who describes herself as having a "very sensitive nose" and an affinity for rich, "feminine" fragrances, has been a fragrance enthusiast for as long as she can remember. "I've been around perfume my whole life. I recall observing my mom as she applied her fragrance, really paying attention to where she placed it," she shares. "She would let me put some on my wrist when we went out for dinners, and I would get so excited." Now, perfumes play a crucial role in her daily routine, both personally and professionally. "Every character I portray has a distinct fragrance. It's vital for me to identify who that woman is and what scent she embodies," she explains. "Perfume is the last element I apply [before] heading on set. After getting into costume, I put on my scent, and it's the finishing touch that helps me create that character."
Some of her fragrance bottles originate from local shops in remote locations, while others are mainstream finds from duty-free shops. ("Sometimes, I'm surprised, thinking, 'Wow! That was it!'") Nevertheless, she researches each scent meticulously, considering what raw materials would have been available to her character during the specific time period. It's a sort of method perfuming. "My mom actually crafted a perfume for Little Women. She designed a scent based on Amy's life and what she could have traded or purchased—minerals she would have used while painting," Pugh reflects. "It was really sophisticated, floral, and lovely. It made me adore Amy even more."
With the upcoming premiere of East of Eden, the eagerly awaited adaptation of John Steinbeck's 1952 novel on Netflix this fall, I'm curious if Le Parfum relates to any of her roles. For now, she's still contemplating. "I'm really excited to discover [it]. Who is that lady?" Pugh muses. "It may take some time. It's a uniquely bold scent that I don't want to just associate with anyone—other than myself."
Le Parfum is inspired by Max Mara's iconic 101801 coat, reflected in the lacquered belt and gold button cap of the bottle. The fragrance within is equally complex, enveloping the wearer in a blend of musky sandalwood, cedarwood, tuberose, benzoin, and a velvety blue vanilla from Réunion Island. It acts like a second skin, intentionally merging traditionally masculine (woods) and feminine (tuberose) notes, much like the original 1981 Max Mara piece, which drew inspiration from menswear. "It took us months to achieve the right balance," perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin shares during a special brand presentation. The careful effort was worthwhile: Pugh, who oversaw the entire production as the fragrance's face, claims it "actually smells like cashmere."
Despite its soft dry-down, Le Parfum is a scent that lingers—on skin and clothing—effectively becoming an extension of one’s personality. For Pugh, that's what makes a fragrance truly enchanting. "It's an invisible DNA," she states. "Whether I'm on set, on a press tour, or at home, it forms part of my identity."
For a captivating fragrance, having a compelling figure like Pugh front the campaign is a natural choice. Her charming smile and sharp humor create an engaging presence that makes the atmosphere feel relaxed, with everyone seemingly unaware of the passing time. Once my group of editors completes our interviews and we take our leave, a faint scent of Le Parfum follows me out, to the airport, and into my closet, where it still lingers on my blazer. Every time I spritz my own bottle, I'm reminded of Pugh—her silhouette illuminated by warm sunlight, and her quick, "You all look beautiful!" as we exited her suite. An invisible connection to that sunlit spring afternoon. I think she would appreciate that.
Shop Max Mara Le Parfum
Max Mara
Le Parfum Eau de Par
Other articles
Florence Pugh discusses Method Perfuming and the fragrance that has come to represent her "invisible DNA."
The acclaimed actress often employs scent to develop a character. In this instance, she shares insights about her most intimate role to date.
