
This Lip-Contouring Guide serves as your essential reference for achieving a fuller pout without the use of needles.
I’m not sure there’s ever been a period in history when people focused so much on their lips. Eyebrows had their peak in the '90s and have seen a resurgence recently—from extremely thin and over-plucked to thick “boy brows”—and skin has experienced countless extreme beauty fads, from historical figures using lead-infused powders to achieve a white complexion to the trend of glass skin today. I'm not a beauty historian, but it's fair to say that lips truly gained attention when Kylie Jenner began her King Kylie era around 2016, sporting a noticeably fuller pout. Suddenly, everyone wanted a Kylie Lip Kit, a shot glass (and may we never see that lip-sucking trend again), or an appointment for lip fillers. While there remains a demand for lip fillers, makeup artists have become more skilled at creating the illusion of fuller lips using makeup products and tools—without any needles involved. After all, filler can be costly, painful, and requires more upkeep compared to lip contouring, which is the newest technique in the beauty toolkit.
“Lip contouring is a technique that uses a cool-toned liner to make lips appear larger and fuller,” says celebrity makeup artist Kasey Spickard, who has worked on the glossy, full lips of Ciara Miller and Tayshia Adams. “It follows the same principles as face contouring by mimicking the natural shadows of fuller lips.” Why the cool tones, you might wonder? It’s similar to contouring cheekbones or jawlines with makeup that typically has a cooler tone to replicate shadows. When you apply a slightly cool-toned, deeper lip liner (or your favorite contour product with a small brush) highlighting where shadows would naturally fall on fuller lips, your pout will look significantly more defined.
Is Lip Contour the Same as Lip Liner? There are numerous TikTok tutorials showing how to overline your lips, but it’s important to distinguish contouring from excessive lip liner. Lip liner is a product used to define and enhance lip shape, while lip contouring is a technique that often involves lip liner—but not the bright pink, red, or vivid colors used to match lipstick. “Lip contouring is not the same as a liner, but you can achieve it with lip liner,” clarifies celebrity makeup artist and brand founder Katie Jane Hughes. “Typically, contouring is done with face products around the mouth to enhance the appearance of volume,” she adds. As the artist behind many of Dua Lipa's and Hailey Bieber's luscious looks, she has several tricks for creating makeup illusions.
The technique involves placing your cool-toned lip liner or contouring product where natural shadows would typically fall—above the Cupid’s bow and below the fullest part of the bottom lip, just under the center, where the lip protrudes above the chin. However, avoid the established lines typically created by standard lip liners. The shadows should be well blended to provide a subtle definition that looks natural. Below, we asked Hughes and Spickard to guide us through the lip-contouring process for our own use.
**How to Contour Your Lips**
1. **Prep Your Base**
The first step is always to hydrate your lips using a balm or oil. I like to apply a lip mask (Laneige’s Lip Sleeping Mask is my long-time favorite) about an hour before makeup application to allow the product to soak in. Just remember to blot off the mask before starting to contour, or the product may slip. “I like to apply any leftover foundation or concealer from my beauty sponge onto my lips, followed by a light layer of powder,” says Spickard. “This provides a base for the lip products to adhere to.” By creating a base, you form a canvas for your contouring medium to stick to—similar to how a contour stick adheres to foundation.
2. **Carve Your Shape**
“Next, using a cool or gray-toned lip liner, I focus on overlining the top of the Cupid's bow and below the center of the bottom lip, then buffing it out with my finger or a dense eyeshadow brush,” Spickard explains. “Concentrate the contouring in these areas and avoid the rest of the lip line to prevent a clownish look.” In essence, keep the contour limited to the center of the lips—above and below—but do not extend it to the outer lip lines.
3. **Add Dimension**
Once your upper and lower lips appear fuller, it’s time to blend in the rest of your lips. “I blend this overlining downward onto the lip to create depth and the illusion of a 'bigger shadow,' making the lips look fuller,” Spickard advises, referring to the blend being downwards rather than outwards. Hughes then suggests staying within your lip line while enhancing the corners’ dimension. “Adding slight shadows on the pigmented part of your mouth at the corners can contribute to the















Other articles





This Lip-Contouring Guide serves as your essential reference for achieving a fuller pout without the use of needles.
Here’s your guide to lip contouring: Hollywood's top beauty secret for achieving full lips without fillers. Find the look starting at just $3 at Ulta, Bluemercury, and other retailers.