The doll aesthetic by Marc Jacobs has been prominent throughout Fashion Month.
(Image credit: Courtesy of Marc Jacobs) During New York Fashion Week this past September, I found myself in a dollhouse. This life-size installation at New York's Academy Mansion featured oversized objects, including tables, beds, and makeup compacts, making me feel like a lost Barbie in the city. The illusion was heightened by models dressed as dolls, adorned in Marc Jacobs's Doll Pumps and garments from the brand's 40th-anniversary collection with exaggerated proportions. Jacobs and artist Anna Weyant transformed the landmark space into a fashion fantasy for Capital One and The Cultivist. There was no official dress code, yet attendees seemed to adopt a self-imposed uniform characterized by heavy mascara, high-heeled shoes, and playful outfits reminiscent of a toy catalog. It became clear to me that everyone was embodying the doll aesthetic—even those outside of The Dollhouse.
Anna Weyant with a Marc Jacobs doll at The Dollhouse (Image credit: BFA) Initially, the theme of dolls was reflected in Marc Jacobs's designs, as he began showcasing models in doll-like dresses and exaggerated accessories in his first runway show for 2024, a motif that has appeared in all his subsequent shows. Fashion editors, influencers, and celebrities have embraced this look, aligning with the significant presence of the coquette aesthetic in pop culture since 2023. Dressing like a doll elevates the coquette style; it calls for more than just a ribbon in your hair to access your inner child. It demands an effort to embody the doll your younger self envisioned for adulthood—complete with the necessary fashion.
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2025 (Image credit: Launchmetrics)
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2025 (Image credit: Launchmetrics)
Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2025 (Image credit: Launchmetrics) The doll theme was prominently featured in New York at Sandy Liang, especially in a white lace dress that transformed the model into a dollhouse complete with panels designed to look like windows. In London, Ashley Williams styled models in colorful bouffants, which were tousled, overly accessorized, and dyed, reminiscent of Barbie dolls often used for creative play (popularly referred to as Weird Barbie in the Barbie movie). Additionally, Simone Rocha infused childlike whimsy into her collection, with models carrying oversized, ruffled pillows like giant sleepy-time dolls and wearing tiered ruffle dresses adorned with large floral rosettes. Even the atmosphere at Prada seemed to evoke a paper doll vibe, with brightly colored, ruffled clothing styled eclectically, as if hastily assembled by a child in a toy shop who believes anything and everything can work together.
Sandy Liang Spring/Summer 2026 (Image credit: Launchmetrics)
Ashley Williams Spring/Summer 2026 (Image credit: Launchmetrics)
Ashley Williams Spring/Summer 2026 (Image credit: Launchmetrics)
Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2026 (Image credit: Launchmetrics)
Simone Rocha Spring/Summer 2026 (Image credit: Launchmetrics) There have been predictions for some time regarding the resurgence of twee fashion. This style, which gained popularity from the mid-2000s to mid-2010s, was largely inspired by 1960s mod aesthetics and is often associated with quirky, childlike elements. Twee brought back Peter Pan collars, owl necklaces, and knee-high socks frequently paired with shorts. The rise of doll-like dressing appears to pave the way for a twee revival. Even in Dario Vitale's first collection for Versace, one could see hints of twee in the long beaded necklaces, which may not be as elaborate as the chandelier necklaces of the 2010s but are certainly reminiscent.
Prada Spring/Summer 2026 (Image credit: Courtesy of Launchmetrics)
Versace Spring/Summer 2026 (Image credit: Launchmetrics) Before long, it will feel as if we are all wandering around a dollhouse as this look becomes more popular in the upcoming months. Fortunately, I have already purchased my Marc Jacobs Doll Pumps in preparation for this trend.
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The doll aesthetic by Marc Jacobs has been prominent throughout Fashion Month.
Everyone desires to appear as though they have just stepped out of a dollhouse.