Elegance, Innovation, and Meghan Markle—Pierpaolo Piccioli's First Collection at Balenciaga

      Pierpaolo Piccioli’s inaugural show at Balenciaga was among the most eagerly awaited events of fashion month. His spring 2026 collection pays tribute to the fashion house, drawing on various Balenciaga codes from its storied past. “The essence of Balenciaga is a methodology. It represents the creative process as an ideology, as identity, and as an expression of humanity and human creation,” stated the show notes. “Pierpaolo Piccioli’s first collection as Creative Director of Balenciaga honors this fundamental aspect of the Maison and Cristobal Balenciaga's legacy while bringing it into the contemporary realm. This is not simply homage, but a recalibration.” From Cristóbal Balenciaga’s innovative silhouettes to Nicolas Ghesquière's futuristic approach and Demna’s streetwear influence, Piccioli utilized the maison's archives as a foundation for his debut collection, infusing it with his unique perspective. The striking combination of 1950s glamour with modern elements throughout the runway looks unmistakably reflected Balenciaga's essence. Below, we delve into the highlights of the spring/summer 2026 Balenciaga collection, which was a hallmark show of the season.

      Pierpaolo Piccioli's First Collection for Balenciaga

      Recently appointed from Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli unveiled his first Balenciaga collection at Paris Fashion Week. While honoring his predecessors, including Demna, who was the previous creative director before moving to Gucci, Piccioli is reintroducing a refined sense of elegance to the fashion house. As he took his final bow, attendees, including Anna Wintour, stood up to give a standing ovation.

      A Recalibration of the Archives

      Piccioli explored different periods in Balenciaga’s history, highlighting significant moments in the brand's legacy. He showcased Cristóbal Balenciaga’s innovative silhouettes, like the sack dress, in dramatic gown forms. Elements of Nicolas Ghesquière's futurism were evident in architectural tailoring and advanced fabrics, while Demna’s streetwear style appeared in oversized T-shirts coupled with vibrant pink leather gloves.

      A Return to Elegance

      During Demna's tenure, Balenciaga drew heavily from subversive streetwear influences. Although Piccioli acknowledged this phase, he shifted towards a revival of the brand's elegant codes. Many of these designs are anticipated to mark a new chapter for the fashion house on the red carpet.

      Innovation and Futurism

      Piccioli incorporated futuristic elements—such as unique sunglass shapes and sculptural silhouettes—along with further innovations on the runway. Cristóbal Balenciaga was a pioneer in using novel fabrics like gazar and organza. Honoring this legacy, Piccioli introduced a new neo gazar fabric. "A fresh development for the Maison, revealed in the Summer 2026 collection by Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli, Balenciaga’s neo gazar fabric is inspired by the original gazar textile created by Cristobal Balenciaga in 1958," a press release explained the innovation. "It retains the inherent sculptural qualities, allowing for remarkable volume achieved solely through cutting."

      Meghan Markle's First PFW Appearance

      Meghan Markle made her debut at Paris Fashion Week for the spring/summer 2026 shows, seated front row at Balenciaga in an entire look designed by Pierpaolo Piccioli. After the show, the Duchess of Sussex changed into a second bespoke Balenciaga outfit.