From Understated to Overstimulated: Glenn Martens Debuts His Ready-to-Wear Collection at Margiela

      Accompanied by a 61-piece children's orchestra, all dressed in dramatically oversized Maison Margiela tuxedos, Glenn Martens unveiled his inaugural co-ed ready-to-wear collection for the Belgian fashion house during Paris Fashion Week. This presentation came just three months following the former Diesel creative director's debut of his first Artisanal (or haute couture) collection for Margiela in July. That collection was certainly not for the faint-hearted; typical of a brand like this, it was designed to provoke thought and evoke strong reactions. For the spring/summer 2026 season, however, Martens adopted a more straightforward approach, retaining some themes from his couture introduction, but implementing them in a considerably more simplified and even practical manner (think Margiela-ized essentials like trench coats, slip dresses, and leather jackets). The show commenced with wearable silhouettes crafted from denim and leather, each enhanced with four-stitch mouthpieces that echo the brand's iconic non-logo, before leading the audience toward more avant-garde designs. Classic Margiela pieces made a comeback, including the Margiela Futures—high-top sneakers updated for 2026—and the Tabi Claw, which debuted in the Artisanal 2025 collection but made its ready-to-wear appearance with a futuristic plexiglass wedge heel (worn by Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner at the event). A new iteration of the Box Bag is also on the horizon, featuring a softer, slouchier design poised to become a favorite by spring.

      For further insights into Martens’ first ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela, keep reading.

      **Pieces For Everyone**

      Like the accompanying music, the designer's seasonal reveal had moments of tranquil serenity mixed with louder, more dynamic elements. According to a press release, the focus was on “concepts and proposals for real life.” Tailoring was showcased in various forms, in denim and classic wool, always with distinctive Margiela touches. A white button-down shirt was paired with jeans and boots, while a slip dress adorned with delicate lace details was teamed with a leather motorcycle jacket. The initial 25 looks prioritized a muted color scheme before transitioning to vibrant hues and patterns as the collection neared its climax. Dresses with asymmetrical hems featured clashing floral prints reminiscent of peeling 16th-century wallpaper (a concept first introduced in the F/W 25 Artisanal collection), prevalent in the show’s latter half. Additionally, "plasticisation," a design technique from couture, was utilized to construct dramatic bodices from tape. Overall, the collection offered something for everyone, from understated basics in the Margiela fashion to gowns intended to stir a variety of emotions.

      **Margiela Mouthpieces**

      The conductor of the orchestra was dressed in a Maison Margiela suit with the brand's signature four-stitch "logo" on the upper back, a motif that appeared on every model in the show, albeit in an unexpected manner. Typically, this symbol is placed at the back of the neck on sweaters or jackets. For S/S 26, however, it manifested as almost surgical mouthpieces. As stated in the show notes, these were employed to provide models with a “uniformity of expression," upholding Maison Margiela’s longstanding commitment to anonymity.

      **In With the Slouch Bag**

      A fresh bag is set to join the offerings of the Belgian house, and it’s already shaping up to be a favorite. This new iteration of the Box Bag is a slouchy shoulder bag featuring sharp edges that give it a distinctive look. Additionally, it boasts an ornamental metal trim in brushed silver, bestowing the bag with a vintage allure amidst a sea of contemporary handbag designs. According to the show notes, the Box Bag can quickly transform into a clutch by tucking the straps inside.

      **Kim and Kylie Take the Front Row**

      Saturday was a star-studded affair in Paris, with Meghan Markle making her debut at Paris Fashion Week at Balenciaga, Ina Garten and her Kelly seated front row at Hermès, and Kim Kardashian and Kylie Jenner coming together at Maison Margiela. Kardashian, who showcased her new pixie cut at Alaïa earlier that day, wore a gray trench coat, a collar necklace, and leather boots with a PVC heel. In contrast, her sister’s ensemble was bolder, featuring a sheer camisole and matching tights made of paper, which were tucked into sharp Tabi wedges.