Vitamin C: a key ingredient in cosmetology or is its importance exaggerated?

      You increasingly hear the opinion that vitamin C is almost a panacea for all skin problems. That it gives youth, acts as an antioxidant, and gets rid of pigmentation. But is everything really so positive or is it just a myth? This question was answered by dermatologist and cosmetologist at the CIDK clinic network, Polina Lapodush.

      "The importance of vitamin C is due to its wide range of biological functions: it acts as a reducing agent, a powerful antioxidant, an active participant in many cellular processes, stimulates fibroblast production and promotes collagen synthesis. In addition, it protects vitamin A from oxidation and helps restore deactivated vitamin E to its active form. This vitamin also effectively fights hyperpigmentation, preventing its appearance and minimizing existing pigmentation. Moreover, ascorbic acid stimulates ceramide production and provides protection to skin cells from harmful UV radiation, which is critically important for preventing premature photoaging," explains the specialist from the CIDK clinic network.

      Thus, vitamin C is indeed indispensable for maintaining skin firmness and youthfulness. It also accelerates cell regeneration after harmful UV exposure and reduces redness.

      Which form of vitamin C is most effective?

      The true biologically active form of vitamin C is L-ascorbic acid — it is its only functional isomer. Other variants of vitamin C are essentially more stable precursor compounds. Due to the poor stability of pure L-ascorbic acid, modern cosmetics use its derivatives, which have increased stability.

      It should be remembered that vitamin C is an acid in any case, and products containing it have a low pH — from 2 to 3.5. This can cause skin peeling, and in people with a compromised lipid barrier it may provoke irritation.

      Studies show that topical use of vitamin C is most effective for maintaining youthful skin. Over-the-counter products usually contain ascorbic acid intended for oral use. When used topically it can cause strong irritation and oxidizes quickly, not having time to exert a beneficial effect on the skin. Therefore it is recommended to prefer specialized cosmetic products where the form of vitamin C is optimal for interaction with the skin: it does not cause irritation, does not oxidize and works more effectively.

      The skin’s need for vitamin C depending on age

      Unfortunately, even very young skin is vulnerable to the harmful effects of ultraviolet light and oxidative stress, so it also needs an effective antioxidant. At age 20 its use becomes an excellent prevention of photoaging, especially in tandem with quality UV protection (SPF).

      After 30 the skin becomes more susceptible to oxidative processes because the body is less efficient at combating them. Cellular damage accumulates and the skin’s resources are depleted; it needs allies in the form of antioxidants such as vitamin C. At this age an effective concentration of vitamin C is considered to be in the range of 5% to 20%. This figure depends on the specific form and formula of the product. Some derivatives of vitamin C demonstrate high effectiveness even at lower concentrations compared to pure L-ascorbic acid.

      At 40 the role of vitamin C as a key participant in collagen synthesis comes to the fore, without negating its antioxidant and brightening properties. It is precisely at this time that it is extremely important to switch to its regular use. Starting at 40 and thereafter, vitamin C and retinol should become an integral part of basic anti-aging care.

      Compatibility of vitamin C with retinol and acids

      When vitamin C and retinol work in tandem, they enhance each other’s effectiveness. But it is important to consider that each of these components can cause skin irritation, so it is still recommended to apply them at different times. The same applies to acids: they complement vitamin C well, but since vitamin C itself is essentially an acid, the irritating effect on the skin is increased. Therefore it is also better to use them at different times. In addition, stronger acids can oxidize and degrade vitamin C.

      An exception is ready-made products in which vitamin C and retinol or acids are already combined: in such formulas manufacturers carefully refine their composition to ensure safety and efficacy for the skin.

      Choosing a vitamin C formula depending on the concern

      It’s simple — for dry skin, oil-soluble forms are more suitable; they help protect lipids, maintain the skin’s barrier function and are less irritating. Among them are ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

      To maintain an anti-aging effect and address reduced firmness, forms that actively stimulate collagen synthesis are suitable, such as ascorbyl glucoside and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

      For pigmentation, all forms of vitamin C are effective; however, ascorbyl glucoside, especially in combination with niacinamide, has a more pronounced emphasis on suppressing melanin production.

      If the skin is thin and sensitive, it is preferable to choose less active concentrations but with the expectation of regular use to minimize the risk of irritation.

      A special case is an allergy to citrus. In this case, using vitamin C will most likely cause a similar reaction. Therefore it is recommended to prefer alternative antioxidants and brightening ingredients such as ferulic acid, vitamin E and arbutin.

      Before using products with vitamin C it is recommended to consult a specialist and individually select the form and concentration. Then the skin will always be firm, radiant and youthful.