Rich, flavorful, yet never overly sweet—savory scents are poised to become the next major trend in fragrances.

      Gourmand fragrance (noun): a scent characterized by edible notes that often brings to mind a dish of berries sprinkled with powdered sugar, apple crumble drizzled with caramel, and a vanilla cupcake adorned with marshmallow frosting. Luxurious and soothing, gourmand fragrances make you smell delectable enough to eat. It's important to note that I mentioned edible rather than dessert-inspired. Rich foods don’t always rely on notes like honeysuckle, red velvet cake, or clotted cream. Picture the enticing aroma of a generous serving of truffle pasta, crispy rosemary-olive focaccia, or a simple slice of buttered toast. Tempting? Definitely. However, these meals are far from sweet, just like their olfactory counterparts, designed for those who desire a rich, captivating blend that caters to their sophisticated tastes. Rest assured, savory gourmand fragrances are equally appealing and wearable as their sugary relatives, and according to perfumers, they are transforming the fragrance world as we know it. Read on to discover how to smell irresistible—in every sense of the term.

      What is a savory gourmand fragrance? "A savory [fragrance] is still edible, or even drinkable, but does not rely on sugar to make its impression," describes perfumer Gus Romero, cofounder of Team of Two Perfumers. "It can be completely devoid of sweetness: think of steamed rice with white musk, olive and fig enveloped in resin, bread-and-butter amber, or spiced tea without a hint of vanilla. It’s a broader interpretation of the gourmand concept for those who desire the comforting and appetizing essence of food and drink without the sugar high."

      The popularity of the gourmand category has soared over the past year, as consumers seek the comfort and nostalgia associated with sweet blends. This new generation of adult gourmands feels sweet without sacrificing elegance, differing from the overly sugary sprays of the past. Even brands that previously avoided dessert-inspired fragrances are now eager to enter the market, including Glossier's You Rêve, DedCool's Mochi Milk, Henry Rose's Dave, and Victoria Beckham Beauty's 21:50 Rêverie... and that’s just the beginning. As this category expands, brands are becoming increasingly inventive with their creations, replacing the ordinary vanilla with more distinctive ingredients—like an unexpected hint of truffle or toasted rice.

      That being said, a savory gourmand fragrance can still encompass sweet aspects. Elements like vanilla, caramel, and marshmallow certainly belong in the mix; however, the composition will combine these soft, classic aromas with a salty or spicy element for a scent that Caroline Ornst, fragrance development director at DSM-Firmenich, describes as "edible with a sensation of comfort and surprise." "The new wave leans into a 'neo-gourmand' style, where desserts are still featured but enhanced with savory textures: caramel-roasted nuts, buttery rice, or a salty croissant with a smear of raspberry jam," adds Romero. "Vanilla is charred, smoked, or salted, mixed into milk or rice instead of being slathered like icing. Caramel shifts from gooeyness to incorporate nutty or mineral layers. It's gourmand suited for a sophisticated palate—brioche with sea salt rather than birthday cake frosting—driven by a longing for comfort that captures nostalgia without crossing into candy-land."

      Why are savory gourmands gaining popularity now? As mentioned earlier, the gourmand fragrance trend continues to thrive, but subtle transformations are emerging. Brands are incorporating bold, contrasting notes to distinguish themselves from a multitude of candy-like fragrances, breathing new life into the genre. Enter neo-gourmands, fragrances that utilize unconventional food notes to elevate perfume to a more refined, artistic level, according to Ornst. Neo-gourmand notes aren’t always salty (they may also be green or woody), but the savory components tend to be the most enticing, particularly as we transition into fall. According to Ornst, these scents "satisfy our desire for warmth, comfort, and elegance," something we often seek during the autumn season.

      They also provide a much gentler dry-down compared to their syrupy counterparts, enhancing their universal appeal, especially among those who may have previously avoided classic gourmand fragrances. "While traditional gourmands can become heavy after several hours, savory versions continue to evolve, softening, drying down, and transforming from kitchen scents to cozy cashmere," remarks Romero. "They feel like an olfactory journey, not just a sugar rush." Striking a balance between boldness and subtlety, savory gourmands are ultimate crowd-pleasers, crafted for individuals who relish surprises in their everyday fragrances.

      Notes to Look For Ornst suggests looking for traditional gourmand notes (vanilla, caramel, toffee, marshmallow, coffee, etc.) balanced with contrasting elements across various scent profiles, ranging from smoky (burnt sugar, toasted nuts) to umami (soy sauce, olive) to vegetables (