I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention

I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention

      While I always anticipate the high-profile names at New York Fashion Week—the shows for which I arrange my entire schedule—I equally look forward to the emerging brands each season. There's something intrinsically appealing about uncovering unconventional new designers at the crossroads of fashion, art, and culture, who create their own distinct aesthetic and offer varied perspectives in the industry. These are the runways, presentations, and showrooms that leave me feeling inspired and remind me of the potential of fashion when it embraces unrestrained experimentation and profound self-expression. For spring/summer 2026, the labels that captivated me the most were Jane Wade, Gabe Gordon, Meruert Tolegen, Colleen Allen, and Mel Usine. Below, explore their latest collections.

      (Image credit: Jane Wade) Since Jane Wade began showcasing her designs, she has become one of my seasonal favorites due to the sharpness, consistency, and uniqueness of her work. After a fall/winter 2025 collection inspired by executive styles, this time she drew from warehouses and workwear in a collection named The Fulfillment. With visual direction by Tre Crews and creative direction alongside Joe Van O, Wade highlighted utilitarian styles with her signature sleek touch. The show notes state, "This season examines labor as currency—how bodies are monitored, time is commodified, and exhaustion becomes uniform. The collection reveals the subtle violence of expendability in commerce, where machine efficiency threatens to diminish human presence. Each garment resists invisibility, emphasizing the value, tactility, and undeniable presence of the working body." Shop Jane Wade

      

      Jane Wade

      Button Down Dress

      

      Jane Wade

      Corseted Pencil Skirt

      

      Jane Wade

      High Collar Gown

      (Image credit: Pipenco) Romanian designer Lorena Pipenco drew inspiration from her roots and the 1965 film De-a fi Harap Alb, a fairytale about resilience, luck, and kindness in the face of adversity. Her collection embraced elements of fantasy and surrealism—prioritizing beauty, play, and imagination over hypercapitalism. The standout moment? A gown made from 900 lemon peels. Shop Pipenco

      

      PIPENCO

      Pink Ladder Knitted Cardigan

      

      PIPENCO

      Green Moving Stripe Cardigan

      (Image credit: Gabe Gordon) At DCTV in downtown Manhattan, Gabe Gordon unveiled a collection inspired by J.G. Ballard's Crash, David Cronenberg’s film adaptation, and Madonna's Erotica. According to the show notes, "Desire in American visual culture is often intertwined with destruction. Across various media, the erotic is frequently depicted through acts of violence, collision, and rupture. This connection is most potent in the overlapping realms of demolition derby, fetishwear, and high-gloss sexual performance." This marks the second season of Gordon's creative collaboration with his partner Timothy Gibbons, who brings a background in costume design and tailoring to the knitwear line. The brand's spring/summer 2026 collection features collaborations with Guzema Fine Jewelry, TômTex, and Lime x LL, LLC, and the duo is now finalists for the 2025 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Shop Gabe Gordon

      

      gabe gordon

      Logo Mini Skirt

      

      gabe gordon

      Horseplay Eau de Parfum

      (Image credit: Colleen Allen) Transitioning from menswear at The Row to establishing herself as an independent designer, Colleen Allen has become a cherished presence at New York Fashion Week. For this collection, she drew inspiration from women's domestic wardrobes—including nightgowns, lingerie, and dressing gowns—crafted from silk and lace. Her aim was to transform items that were once limited to the home into public attire. Drawing influence from Red Comet, a biography of Sylvia Plath, Allen delves into the conflict between domestic confinement and creative ambition in her latest collection. Shop Colleen Allen

      

      COLLEEN ALLEN

      Lace-Trimmed Silk Midi Dress

      

      COLLEEN ALLEN

      Tie-Detailed Capri Pants

      

      COLLEEN ALLEN

      Twist Gathered Cotton Maxi Dress

      (Image credit: Meruert Tolegen) Hailing from Kazakhstan and now based in New York, Meruert Tolegen has quickly garnered attention from editors since her debut in Paris in 2022. Her accomplishments speak volumes: she is a 2025 LVMH Prize semifinalist, and her first store has just opened at 39 Wooster Street in SoHo. With such a dynamic trajectory, it will be thrilling to see what she creates in the upcoming seasons. Shop Meruert Tolegen

      

      Meruert Tolegen

      Asymmetric Cardigan

      

      Meruert Tolegen

      Hand Knit Balaclava

      

      Meruert Tolegen

      Liquid Cutout Drape Satin Dress

      (Image credit: Mila Sullivan) Mila Sullivan's show evoked a Victorian-era dream, accompanied by music from the harp-and-violin duo Leya. The Brooklyn-based designer works with reimagined vintage materials—

I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention

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I Recently Attended NYFW—Here Are the Emerging Brands That Caught My Attention

Explore the spring/summer 2026 collections by Jane Wade, Gabe Gordon, Meruert Tolegen, Zoe Gustavia, Anna Whalen, Colleen Allen, and Mel Usine.