I just attended NYFW—here are the emerging brands that caught my attention.
While I always anticipate the big names at New York Fashion Week—the shows that dictate my whole schedule—I find equal excitement in the emerging brands each season. I’ve always appreciated the thrill of uncovering unconventional new designers who blend fashion, art, and culture, creating their own aesthetic realms and offering fresh viewpoints within the industry. These are the runways, presentations, and showrooms that leave me feeling inspired and remind me of fashion’s potential when it welcomes bold experimentation and authentic self-expression. For spring/summer 2026, the standout labels for me were Jane Wade, Gabe Gordon, Meruert Tolegen, Colleen Allen, and Mel Usine. Below, you’ll find a glimpse of each of their latest collections.
(Image credit: Jane Wade) Since Jane Wade began showcasing her designs, she has become a highlight for me each season with her sharp, consistent, and unmistakably unique work. After being inspired by the executive suite for her fall/winter 2025 collection, she transitioned to exploring warehouses and workwear with a collection titled The Fulfillment. Under the visual direction of Tre Crews and creative direction alongside Joe Van O, Wade emphasized utilitarian styles while maintaining her signature sleek aesthetic. The show notes stated, "This season examines labor as currency—how bodies are monitored, time is sold, and exhaustion becomes standard. Through operations, logistics, and manual labor, the collection reveals the quiet violence of expendability in commerce, where machine efficiency risks erasing human presence. Each piece resists invisibility, affirming the value, tangibility, and irreplaceable presence of the working body." Shop Jane Wade
Jane Wade
Button Down Dress
Jane Wade
Corseted Pencil Skirt
Jane Wade
High Collar Gown
(Image credit: Pipenco) Romanian designer Lorena Pipenco drew from her cultural roots and referenced the 1965 film De-a fi Harap Alb, a tale of resilience, luck, and kindness against adversity. Her collection celebrated fantasy and surrealism by prioritizing beauty, play, and imagination over hyper-capitalism. The standout moment? A gown crafted from 900 lemon peels. Shop Pipenco
PIPENCO
Pink Ladder Knitted Cardigan
PIPENCO
Green Moving Stripe Cardigan
(Image credit: Gabe Gordon) At DCTV in downtown Manhattan, Gabe Gordon unveiled a collection influenced by J.G. Ballard's Crash, the film adaptation by David Cronenberg, and Madonna's Erotica. The show notes explain, "Desire in American visual culture often intertwines with destruction. Across various media, the erotic is frequently conveyed through acts of violence, collision, and rupture. This connection is vividly illustrated in the shared motifs of demolition derby, fetishwear, and high-gloss sexual performances." This marks the second season of Gordon's creative collaboration with his partner, Timothy Gibbons, who adds his expertise in costume design and tailoring to the knitwear line. The spring/summer 2026 collection features collaborations with Guzema Fine Jewelry, TômTex, and Lime x LL, LLC, and the duo are finalists for the 2025 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. Shop Gabe Gordon
gabe gordon
Logo Mini Skirt
gabe gordon
Horseplay Eau de Parfum
(Image credit: Colleen Allen) Transitioning from her background in menswear at The Row to her emergence as an independent designer, Colleen Allen has become a highly regarded figure at New York Fashion Week. For this collection, she drew inspiration from women's domestic wardrobes—nightgowns, lingerie, and dressing gowns—crafted from silk and lace. The goal was to take garments that were traditionally confined to the home and make them suitable for public view. Influenced by Red Comet, the biography of Sylvia Plath, Allen delves into the tension between domestic constraints and creative ambition in her latest offering. Shop Colleen Allen
COLLEEN ALLEN
Lace-Trimmed Silk Midi Dress
COLLEEN ALLEN
Tie-Detailed Capri Pants
COLLEEN ALLEN
Twist Gathered Cotton Maxi Dress
(Image credit: Meruert Tolegen) Originally from Kazakhstan and now based in New York, Meruert Tolegen has quickly gained favor among editors since debuting in Paris in 2022. Tolegen’s achievements are noteworthy: she is a semifinalist for the 2025 LVMH Prize, and her first store has just opened at 39 Wooster Street in SoHo. Given her impressive trajectory, it will be exciting to see her future endeavors. Shop Meruert Tolegen
Meruert Tolegen
Asymmetric Cardigan
Meruert Tolegen
Hand Knit Balaclava
Meruert Tolegen
Liquid Cutout Drape Satin Dress
(Image credit: Mila Sullivan) Mila Sullivan's show felt like stepping into a Victorian-era dream, with the atmosphere heightened by music from the harp-and-violin duo
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I just attended NYFW—here are the emerging brands that caught my attention.
Explore the spring/summer 2026 collections from Jane Wade, Gabe Gordon, Meruert Tolegen, Zoe Gustavia, Anna Whalen, Colleen Allen, and Mel Usine.
