Tretinoin Harmed My Skin Barrier—Sabrina Carpenter's Aesthetician Provided These Tips for Better Complexion

      (Image credit: @shawnasimonee) This may be an unpopular opinion, but I'm not particularly fond of tretinoin. There, I admitted it. I had a negative experience while attempting to treat my acne-prone skin, and things haven't improved since. Although it's been some time since I stopped using it, my skin barrier hasn’t fully healed, leading to a lengthy recovery journey. I've been lucky enough to have access to top-notch aestheticians in Hollywood, and I’m especially grateful to have worked with celebrity aesthetician Renée Rouleau. Rouleau has been incredibly supportive as I dealt with my skin issues. She is exceptionally knowledgeable and reliable, and her list of famous clients speaks volumes about her expertise. She works with everyone from Sabrina Carpenter to Demi Lovato and has over 35 years of experience in aesthetics, which means she has encountered a wide range of skin issues.

      I reached out to her with an urgent plea regarding my highly reactive, inflamed, and compromised skin. I sought her advice on how to address it and wanted to share this information, knowing I'm not the only one facing tretinoin-related challenges. Friends aware of my role as a beauty editor have turned to me for insights on this topic. True to her role as an educator, Rouleau generously provided help. She also created a comprehensive skincare routine utilizing her remarkable products that truly transformed my skin. With today being National Aesthetician Day, it's the ideal moment to acknowledge her expertise and put her advice into action. Keep reading for everything she shared!

      Why Tretinoin Might Not Always Be Ideal for Acne

      Rouleau explains that it's easy to misuse tretinoin. As a vitamin A derivative, it accelerates cellular turnover, which might lead you to believe it’s beneficial for acne. However, Rouleau clarifies that this isn’t always true. "For those dealing with acne, your skin is very biologically active," she says, adding, "I like to compare acne-prone skin to a car going 100 miles per hour—we need to slow it down to 50 miles per hour." In simpler terms, if you have acne, your skin is already shedding dead skin cells rapidly, which can lead to clogged pores. Introducing a retinoid might exacerbate the issue.

      Tretinoin is more effective for concerns like skin aging and sun spots. For mild breakouts and congestion, a gentler retinoid can be more beneficial. Rouleau points out that while it can help clear smaller clogged pores and blackheads, it is less effective for irritated, red, and inflamed breakouts.

      I discovered that my overuse of tretinoin contributed to my problems. At that time, I had a dermatologist who prescribed it with the instruction to apply it nightly (yikes). Unfortunately, it didn’t actually improve my skin; I continued to break out but feared stopping would make things worse. If only Rouleau had been my aesthetician back then… Eventually, I learned my lesson, but it left my skin compromised. By that point, my moisture barrier was severely damaged. Even though I stopped using tretinoin some time ago, I am still in recovery. My next inquiry for Rouleau was how to repair the damage.

      How to Repair Tretinoin Damage

      First and foremost, if you're experiencing red and inflamed breakouts, it may be wise to stop using tretinoin. "Always pay attention to your skin," Rouleau advises. If breakouts persist despite using a retinoid, temporarily discontinuing its use may help calm your skin. Rouleau also has a detailed blog post on her website discussing how to care for dry, flaky, and damaged skin resulting from aggressive topical treatments. Additionally, she offers a helpful quiz that can help you identify your skin type and suitable ingredients.

      Rouleau emphasizes the importance of focusing on calming, repairing, and soothing ingredients tailored to your specific skin type. For instance, my skin type on the Renée Rouleau scale is type four, which is very sensitive, either oily or combination, and prone to some breakouts. From there, Rouleau guided me in creating a barrier-repair routine designed to soothe and restore my skin without triggering new breakouts. Selecting the right moisturizer is essential. Rouleau's Skin Recovery Lotion ($45) is an excellent option for those with acne, as it's formulated to enhance barrier function without heavy oils or other pore-clogging components.

      Renée Rouleau Skin Recovery Lotion

      This lotion is infused with water-binding hydrators that alleviates dehydration, redness, and flakiness resulting from excessive use of a potent retinoid. Rouleau also has some impressive before-and-after photos demonstrating its effectiveness. The formula includes two key recovery-supporting ingredients: Pentavin, a skin-identical complex that integrates naturally occurring sugars to strengthen the barrier, and Aquaxyl,