From Milan to New York—"Nécolletage" fashion will be in vogue everywhere this spring.
Occasionally, a runway show resembles a friend narrating a tale: layers of excitement escalating to a peak with a piece of gossip that’s so enticing and gratifying that you feel joyful for days. Celine’s spring/summer 2026 collection elicited a similar response from me, revealing not snippets of information but enchanting details focused on the neck.
Initially, there was a string of beads that gracefully intertwined with a sky-blue collar. This was followed by another necklace featuring numerous loops that varied in size, resembling a foulard. Lastly, a pussy-bow shirt with the elegance of a cravat was framed by a leather bomber jacket. By the final look—a shirt with an elevated collar and lapels the size of tortilla chips—it was clear: the "nécolletage" is where the focus lies. This trend was mirrored outside the shows, where street style enthusiasts adopted a more-is-more strategy in nécolletage styling, showcasing brooches arranged like constellations and embellished collars reminiscent of necklaces, requiring little effort. Forget about weighing down your earlobes and giving your wrists a rest from bangles— for S/S 26, the neck takes center stage.
1. Statement Necklaces
Style Notes: Lemaire’s Castanet necklace, shaped like a compact mirror resembling a percussion instrument, leather tags on cord lengths, and various pendants from pouches to perfume bottles illustrate that necklaces have evolved beyond mere adornment. Tory Burch’s autumn/winter 2026 show highlighted armored fish necklaces, each pendant akin to a sardine, while Chanel moved past pearls for S/S 26, pairing tweed with strands of tubular beads. It's no longer simply about necklaces for the sake of it; instead, it’s about storytelling through neckwear, with curated strands that seem as if they could have been taken from a museum's collection. The aim is to create a grouping of unique pendants—such as Alighieri’s wax-cast piece that hides a secret looking glass—to add depth to any outfit.
2. The Silk Scarf
Style Notes: A silk scarf tied around the neck may initially come across as an old-fashioned accessory, but recent runways from Acne Studios, Bottega Veneta, and Celine prove otherwise. Richard E. Grant even sported one for Miu Miu, a geometric silk square tucked into a half-zip knit with an elevated collar. This reflects a refined approach to nécolletage, and charity shops or vintage stores are likely to stock an abundance of silk scarves. Opting for one that appears slightly crushed or weathered can complement similarly aged leather or suede.
3. Brooches
Style Notes: A cluster of brooches on a lapel or a single statement pin attached to a cape or fastened around a sleeve has emerged as another means to personalize one's appearance. Safety pins adorned with beads and crystallized elements were seen at London Fashion Week, while oversized initials made an appearance in Milan, serving as a playful reminder of your identity. Contemporary jewelers like Georg Jensen, CompletedWorks, and Lié Studio are expanding their collections with brooches, including a spiral pin designed to sit diagonally on a blazer's lapel—ideal for those not wanting to adorn their ears but still wishing to enhance their clothing.
4. Embellished Collars
Style Notes: An embellished collar does all the heavy lifting, adding flair to your nécolletage without any effort required. Outside Prada, Elva Ni donned the brand’s satin minidress featuring a matching beaded choker in delightful macaron shades; however, a more practical option could be a knit. Tory Burch’s short-sleeved gray sweater is embellished with silver accents—from triangular paillettes to faceted beads and dainty hoops—transforming a simple jumper into something worthy of admiration.
5. Neck Ties
Style Notes: While ties are not a novel addition to accessories, they have adopted a different aesthetic for spring 2026, moving away from a corporate vibe (often worn ironically with items like patent wiggle skirts). Retro prints—those you may stumble upon in a grandparent’s attic or at a boot sale—have made a comeback, whether in polka dots paired with faux fur or featuring floral patterns reminiscent of sofa cushions. Paul Smith's quirky bulb design is charming, as is the leopard-printed leather version from Bottega Veneta. After selecting your tie, consider experimenting with shirts, perhaps opting for elongated lapels or leaving the top button undone as if you’ve just finished work.
From Milan to New York—"Nécolletage" fashion will be in vogue everywhere this spring.
According to Natalie Hammond, nécolletage dressing is officially trending for 2026, featuring everything from elegant silk scarves to eye-catching statement necklaces.
