Sarah Burton's inaugural Givenchy collection infuses a feminine essence into the iconic atelier.

      Sarah Burton’s initiation at Givenchy didn't start with a design but with an unexpected discovery. While renovating Hubert de Givenchy’s original maison in Paris, a hidden cupboard was found, unveiling a forgotten piece of the brand’s past. Inside were calico patterns from his inaugural 1952 collection, once shared with an audience visiting his workshop. These well-preserved artifacts from the label’s beginnings could not have coincided with a more opportune moment for Sarah Burton, as she was gearing up for her debut collection at the brand at that time. For Burton, this was more than just a moment in fashion history; it signified a return to the core essence of Givenchy. She approached her inaugural collection with a focused intent: the atelier, the cut, and the intrinsic elegance that has characterized the brand for more than 70 years. The outcome is a collection that reinterprets the Givenchy woman in a manner that feels both powerful and intimate. Silhouettes reflect the precision of couture while incorporating fluidity and motion. The tailoring is both sculpted and sensual, mixing masculine structure with feminine grace. There's an instinctual tension—sharp coats and cocoon jackets, micro-cut lace dresses and deconstructed shirts—that captures the contemporary woman in all her complexities. Through this collection, Burton not only pays tribute to Givenchy’s history but also redefines it for a woman who exists firmly in the present.

      In embracing her new role at this fashion house, Sarah Burton aims not to create a new Givenchy but to return to the house’s roots. She mentioned to the media, “To go forward, you must revisit the beginning. For me, that centers on the atelier. It’s the heart and essence of Givenchy.” Balancing the celebration of the modern woman with a nod to her origins is something only Burton could accomplish. She brings a woman’s viewpoint to Givenchy—and to fashion overall—at a time when female creative directors at prominent brands are notably few.

      This collection champions a powerful femininity that is integral to the brand’s story, crafted for the remarkable women who wear it. Hourglass silhouettes, voluminous tulle, and sporadic floral details are combined with surprising glimpses of skin—such as bodysuits and highlights on long legs. The Givenchy woman exudes control over her allure, deciding when and how to present herself. Burton articulates this sentiment: “I want to encompass everything about modern women: strength, vulnerability, emotional intelligence, feeling powerful or incredibly sexy. All of it.” She pays tribute to the atelier's roots through a distinctly feminine perspective.

      When a collection of Hubert de Givenchy’s original patterns from 1952 was found unexpectedly, it transcended being merely a historical relic—it became the cornerstone of Burton’s debut. In honoring the brand’s foundations, she reinterpreted classic styles with contemporary clarity. The cocoon shapes of the '50s were modernized for today’s woman, maintaining their volume without feeling constricting. It creates a seamless dialogue between past and present, demonstrating that true elegance is timeless.

      Elle Fanning set the stage for Sarah Burton’s Givenchy era even before the collection debuted on the runway. At the 97th Academy Awards, she donned a stunning white gown—the first custom couture piece crafted by Burton for the house. Like the rest of the collection, it drew inspiration from one of the sketches in Hubert de Givenchy's inaugural 1952 collection. The gown, made from French Lyon lace and silk tulle, featured a dramatic black bow, a nuanced yet striking detail that felt instantly iconic. Fast-forward to the debut collection, and one particular dress mirrors that same cinematic splendor. A flowing white tulle gown, reminiscent of bridal couture, gracefully descends the runway radiating effortless romance. Just like Fanning’s moment at the Oscars, it illustrates that Burton’s Givenchy is rooted in its history yet aims for the spotlight.