Invest in America: Discover the Political and Creative Influences Shaping the Evolution of American Fashion.

      The American fashion industry is currently experiencing a significant period of uncertainty, grappling with numerous challenges that seem to be pulling it in various directions. Independent designers, who used to be the vibrant core of the nation's creative scene, are now fighting for their survival. Financial resources tend to favor Europe’s luxury brands, leaving smaller, independent labels to manage a marketplace where innovation is often eclipsed by louder voices and bigger budgets. Each season brings discussions about whether New York Fashion Week is past its prime, with many brands and buyers choosing to attend shows in Milan and Paris instead of staying local. The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has committed to revitalizing New York fashion, and the recent selection of Thom Browne as chairman marks a positive move. “In times when designers’ roles are constantly questioned, we must disregard the distractions and concentrate on what truly matters to us,” he expressed on Instagram just before the fall 2025 shows began in New York. However, despite these initiatives, many talented designers are leaving in what can be described as a real-time brain drain in the fashion sector. For numerous emerging designers, especially those from underrepresented communities, achieving breakthrough success seems increasingly unattainable, even as they pour their heart and soul into their craft. “Compared to other fields, fashion began to embrace diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI) mainly in 2020,” noted Sheena Butler-Young, a senior correspondent at Business of Fashion, in her conversation with Who What Wear. Generally, many designers interviewed for this article only started receiving recognition from both the industry and consumers for their ideas in response to the Black Lives Matter protests of 2020. Retailers began supporting Black-owned businesses by allocating valuable shelf space, and initiatives like the 15 Percent Pledge gained traction. The visibility of Black talent in the industry seemed to catalyze empowerment for other designers of color. Yet, as Butler-Young points out, much of this recognition was superficial. By 2022, funding for marginalized designers dwindled, forcing them to reduce orders or rethink their production strategies. "Fashion's engagement with diversity, equity, and inclusion was a response fueled by emotion," Butler-Young remarked. "At worst, it was merely performative."

      In 2025, this has led to a harsh environment where economic challenges, evolving consumer behaviors, and a fluctuating political landscape threaten the very essence of American fashion—a professional haven for visionary creators. Despite this fractured situation, an undeniable spirit persists—a raw, unyielding energy that refuses to die out. Independent brands, driven by their vision, continue to push boundaries, intertwining identities, cultures, and stories often overlooked or muted. For them, fashion transcends mere clothing sales; it is about creating worlds, reshaping narratives, and redefining luxury and success. “I genuinely hope that American designers, regardless of where they produce, remain inspired in the coming years. While this administration may enact enduring changes, we must remember that life and the world extend far beyond the next four years,” Butler-Young emphasized. “One crucial fact I like to highlight is that, according to the U.S. census, by 2045, this country will be predominantly non-white... That’s the demographic designers will need to reach in the next two decades.”

      Despite the overwhelming challenges, a determination and a quiet optimism course through this divided industry. Faced with economic instability, changing trends, and an unyielding market, these designers are discovering ways to stand firm. They draw strength from their roots, communities, and creativity to persist. Their resilience serves as a proclamation that even during tough times, creativity can flourish and potentially reshape the future of American fashion.

      Jacques Agbobly, originally from Lomé, Togo, grew up among local seamstresses and tailors who crafted garments in extra rooms rented by his grandmother. After relocating to the United States and studying at Parsons School of Design, Agbobly launched a knitwear brand to connect his Lomé heritage with his new career in New York. “Having navigated between cultures, I channel my experiences into fashion to create a universe that echoes both nostalgia and forward-thinking, where African artistry meets contemporary design,” the designer shared with Who What Wear. “Agbobly isn’t solely about clothing; it encapsulates storytelling, identity, and redefining luxury for a global, diasporic audience.” His vibrant and whimsical designs draw from personal and shared memories—childhood games, lively textures, and joyful moments often absent from mainstream representations of Black life.

      In 2024, Agbobly became a semifinalist for the LVMH Prize, which aims to support and elevate independent and emerging labels. However, despite the presumed advantage of a major corporate endorsement, Agbobly acknowledges ongoing struggles within the fashion industry. While larger brands with financial backing persist, Agbobly believes the key to staying focused and resilient lies in engaging their community of loyal