Chanel's in-house perfumer shared all the details with me about the new fragrance that inspires feelings of joy and optimism.
Reading about fragrances is akin to hearing about food—there's a limit to understanding until you've experienced the scent (or taste) firsthand. Unfortunately, I can't send a sample of the latest Chanel fragrance to all our readers, so you'll have to rely on this written description for now. To better convey the essence, I interviewed Chanel's in-house perfumer, Olivier Polge, who is the creative force behind the new Chance Eau Splendide, expected to become the signature scent of summer 2025 and beyond. You're likely familiar with the four previous scents in the collection: the original yellow Chance, the green Chance Eau Fraîche, the pink Chance Eau Tendre, and the orange Chance Eau Vive. Now, a captivating lilac scent joins the lineup, making it five. If the color is appealing, just wait until you experience the notes of raspberry, rose geranium, and others. Continue reading for my complete interview with Polge, who almost inspired me to change my career to follow in his footsteps.
What's the inspiration behind the new fragrance? The inspiration closely ties to Chance. There are now five different Chance perfumes, each sharing the same spirit and mindset rather than specific ingredients. They are composed of diverse raw materials tailored to various preferences. As I began crafting the scent, I believed its success would hinge on the top notes—those that make an immediate impact. The existing Chance fragrances feature notes of pink pepper and citrus, leading me to incorporate fruity elements.
The top note comprises a raspberry accord due to its vibrant nature. It carries a high pitch and, intriguingly, combines floral undertones with violet and rosy notes, making it an excellent starting point for the fragrance. The floral aspect centers around geranium, reflecting the rosy tone of raspberry. Though technically a leaf, geranium exudes a rosy, herbal, fresh, and slightly minty aroma. The core of the middle note relies on a blend of cedarwood and white musk.
What emotions do you hope this perfume will evoke? I desire it to elicit joy, happiness, and optimism.
If someone aspired to your role, what qualities should they possess, and where should they begin? As a perfumer, people often say you need a keen sense of smell, which is true. However, just like a painter can wear glasses, the nose is merely the tool; what matters more is your mindset and sensibility. I would say that, like any creative profession, possessing a curious nature is essential. It’s all about creativity, curiosity, and having faith in your instincts. Since there are no strict rules for scent creation, confidence in your decisions is crucial.
How does your role blend art and science? Even a skilled lawyer must exercise creativity at times. Perfumers need to be imaginative, generate great ideas, and think about scents from multiple perspectives. There’s also a craftsmanship aspect involved. Understanding how raw materials work together—what to expect from them and how to manipulate their identities—is vital. The science involved is quite fundamental; it’s an experimental field. There are specific scientific elements in my work, and I have scientists on my team. We operate our own raw materials factory in southern France, employing three scientists dedicated to discovering new extraction methods and refining raw materials.
What might surprise someone about your profession? Many have stereotypes that lead them to believe I have a superior sense of smell or could identify someone's fragrance from across the room, which is untrue. I do not have a better sense of smell than anyone else, but I have trained myself to recognize various perfumes. It might surprise them that this is a profession one can learn.
Shop the New Chanel Chance Eau Splendide and Other Fragrances:
CHANEL
Chance Eau Splendide
CHANEL
Chance Eau Fraîche
CHANEL
Gabrielle Chanel L'Eau
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