Luxurious, Flavorful, Yet Always Balanced—Savory Scents Are Poised to Become the Next Major Fragrance Trend.

      Gourmand fragrance (noun): a perfume that incorporates edible notes, often reminiscent of a bowl of berries dusted with powdered sugar, caramel drizzled over apple crumble, or a vanilla cupcake topped with marshmallow frosting. Indulgent and soothing, gourmand scents make you smell so delicious you could almost eat yourself. It's important to note that I described these as edible rather than inspired by dessert. Rich delicacies can diverge from typical sweet notes like honeysuckle, red velvet cake, and clotted cream. Consider the enticing scents emanating from a plate of truffle pasta, crispy rosemary-olive focaccia, or just a slice of buttered toast. Tempting? Definitely. However, these dishes aren't sweet, and neither are their fragrance counterparts. They cater to bon vivants seeking a sophisticated, multi-layered blend to satisfy their discerning tastes. Savory gourmand fragrances are just as appealing and wearable as their sugary counterparts, and perfumers agree they're reshaping the fragrance scene as we know it. Keep reading to discover how to smell delectable in every regard.

      So, what constitutes a savory gourmand fragrance? "A savory [fragrance] is still edible, or even drinkable, but it doesn't rely on sugar to make its impression," states perfumer Gus Romero, cofounder of Team of Two Perfumers. "It can be entirely devoid of sweetness: think steamed rice with white musk, olive and fig encased in resin, bread-and-butter amber, spiced tea without any vanilla. It's the gourmand concept broadened for those who enjoy the comfort and appetizing qualities of food and drink notes without the sugar high."

      It's no surprise that the gourmand category has surged in popularity recently, as consumers seek the comfort and nostalgia associated with rich sweet blends. In contrast to the overly sweet fragrances of the past, this new generation of sophisticated gourmands presents sweetness without sacrificing elegance. Even brands that previously avoided dessert-inspired scents are exploring this territory, as seen with Glossier's You Rêve, DedCool's Mochi Milk, Henry Rose's Dave, and Victoria Beckham Beauty's 21:50 Rêverie, to name a few. As this category expands, brands are becoming increasingly inventive with their offerings, replacing common vanilla notes with more distinctive ones like an intriguing hint of truffle or toasted rice.

      That said, a savory gourmand fragrance can still include sweet notes. Ingredients like vanilla, caramel, and marshmallow certainly play a role. The blend merges these soft, classic aromas with a salty or spicy twist, creating a fragrance that Caroline Ornst, fragrance development director at DSM-Firmenich, describes as "edible with a sense of comfort and surprise."

      "The new wave embraces a 'neo-gourmand' style, where desserts remain an option but are enhanced with savory textures: caramel-coated nuts, buttery rice, a savory croissant paired with raspberry jam," adds Romero. "Vanilla is toasted, smoked, or salted, integrated into milk or rice instead of just being spread like frosting. Caramel moves away from its sticky sweetness towards nutty or mineral subtleties. It's a gourmand experience with a more refined palate—like brioche with sea salt rather than birthday cake frosting—fueled by a desire for comforting flavors that feel both chic and nostalgic, without entering candy territory."

      Why are savory gourmands gaining traction now? As previously mentioned, the gourmand fragrance trend remains robust but is undergoing subtle transformations. Brands are turning to bold, contrasting notes to differentiate themselves from a crowd of candy-sweet fragrances, infusing new life into the category. Enter neo-gourmands—fragrances that incorporate unusual food notes to elevate a perfume to a more sophisticated, artistic level, according to Ornst. Neo-gourmand notes aren't exclusively salty; they may also be green or woody, yet the savory components tend to be especially captivating as we transition into fall. According to Ornst, these fragrances "satisfy our longing for warmth, comfort, and sophistication," sentiments often felt during the autumn months.

      Additionally, these scents offer a notably softer dry-down compared to their syrupy counterparts, broadening their appeal, particularly among individuals who may have previously avoided traditional gourmand perfumes. "While classic gourmands can become overwhelming after several hours, savory versions continue to evolve, soften, and transition from kitchen aromas to the comfort of a cashmere sweater," notes Romero. "They provide an olfactory journey rather than merely a sugar experience." Remarkably bold yet understated, savory gourmands are the epitome of crowd-pleasers, especially perfect for those who enjoy unexpected elements in their daily fragrances.

      **Notes to Look For**

      Ornst suggests seeking traditional gourmand notes (vanilla, caramel, toffee, marshmallow, coffee, etc.) combined with contrasting notes from various fragrance families, including smoky (burnt sugar, toasted nuts), umami (soy sauce, olive), vegetables (tomato, green pepper), and