Mature Models Have Returned to the Runways—Here's the Reason

      Chani Ra serves as the Editor in Residence for Who What Wear UK and is a fashion commentator based in London, utilizing her social platform, The Fashion Nap, to share show reports, trend insights, and both current and archival industry analyses across Instagram, TikTok, and YouTube. In addition to interviewing industry leaders and specialists, she frequently appears as a panel expert. Over the past decade or two, it has become commonplace for women in their twenties to adhere to a regular Botox and filler routine, with the latest trend among celebrities nearing 30 being facelifts. However, a shift is underway. As fashion leans towards a more "undone" aesthetic and fillers are being dissolved, distinctive and expressive faces are once again gaining visibility.

      Susie Cave appears in Tom Ford's spring/summer 2026 campaign. (Image credit: Tom Ford). Fashion brands are beginning to recognize the rising popularity of mature models. For instance, Tom Ford has just released a striking campaign featuring 59-year-old former model and co-founder of The Vampire's Wife, Susie Cave. One video, in particular, captured my attention, especially as the camera zoomed in on her face, highlighting the delicate lines surrounding her pink-shadowed gaze. This was a precursor to an alluring show where creative director Haider Ackermann expertly balanced restraint and tension with models of varying ages.

      Chanel's latest standout model is 50-year-old Stephanie Cavalli, who first made waves by opening Matthieu Blazy's debut couture show in a sheer suit, only to return to kick off the highly anticipated Chanel autumn/winter 2026 show. Cavalli’s hairstyle—a chic curly, triangular bob with grey streaks—has quickly become iconic, beautifully framing her mature features.

      In a conversation with Jane McFarland, Who What Wear UK's editor-in-chief, who braved the crowds at the Paris store opening while the spring collection launched, it was emphasized that Chanel caters to women of all ages. The new standard of aspiration is grounded in reality, showcasing that the brands young women are drawn to are those they can evolve with. Women with real-life experiences are now celebrated as the new It girls. Even my afternoon TikTok scrolling is filled with women who worked at Calvin Klein in the '90s, emerging as the torchbearers of "Carolyn Bessette Kennedy chic." The comments section is buzzing with Gen Z viewers yearning for that timeless allure, exclaiming how they "still look so good!"

      Reflecting on the most recent fashion month, London set the benchmark for inclusivity in age representation. Karoline Vitto, a Brazilian designer based in London, is known for catering to women of all sizes, embracing diversity in age by dressing 40-year-old women with the same flair as those in their twenties. "We dress the baddies!" Vitto proclaimed backstage. "That can come at any age and any shape. It's all about the attitude and the presence you exude when wearing the clothes." Indeed, presence proves to be a far more compelling asset than youth, and it’s significantly harder to replicate.

      Johanna Parv presented a collection entitled Intimacy of Distances for women who are actively living and navigating life purposefully. The show notes described creative women traveling through various modes to different destinations, with the outfits serving as a uniform for a streamlined, no-nonsense success story. "Most models are too young for my taste," Parv observed, as her show featured models of all ages.

      Casting director Lisa Dymph Megens has made it her mission to cast the women brands are truly selling to, rejecting the idea of "sending 20 teenagers down the runway." "Johanna Parv’s show demonstrated that you can present something deeply human while still being distinctly 'fashion'," she shared with me. "As casting directors, you wait for a brief that allows you to showcase your values, as you still have to meet the designer's vision, in an industry often fixated on youth. This is related to the perception that young women tend to be easier to control."

      Megens highlights an undeniable truth. A glance at the so-called “elite” men making headlines across various industries, including fashion, makes the pursuit of eternal youth appear even more troubling. One must question: whose standards are we striving to meet? Once you ponder this, it becomes apparent that there is a need to embrace maturity.

      To embody this sense of rebellion, Lueder’s runway featured London nightlife icon (and the only royal I acknowledge this season), Princess Julia. Renowned for reportedly going out every night since 1976, Princess Julia is a cornerstone of London’s queer community and a supporter of emerging designers. Rose McGowan, 52, also graced Lueder’s runway, sporting a rave-inspired look complete with a bleached pixie cut, dark shades, a red silk bomber jacket, black tights, leg warmers, and trainers. In the Matieres F