Niacinamide: an effective component in cosmetology

      The task of the modern beauty industry is to find universal components that possess proven effectiveness and necessary safety. Niacinamide has firmly established its reputation as an ingredient capable of addressing a wide range of cosmetic issues. More about how niacinamide "works" and what defects it can eliminate was explained by cosmetologist-esthetician Madina Mekhtikhanova from the CIDK clinic network.

      "Niacinamide acts as a key regulator of cellular metabolism and is essential in protocols that eliminate the negative effects of environmental factors and age-related changes. It is a multifunctional agent whose biological availability helps to simultaneously enhance the barrier functions of the dermis, address pigmentation issues, and reduce inflammation. Unlike retinoids or acids, known for their aggressive effects, niacinamide acts delicately and is perfect even for sensitive skin," explains the specialist from the CIDK clinic network.

      What skin problems does vitamin B3 solve?

      Niacinamide, or nicotinic acid (vitamin B3), acts at the cellular level and actively participates in energy metabolism, promoting an increase in NAD+ concentration within cells. This activates sirtuins – proteins responsible for repairing damaged DNA structures and promoting longevity.

      Nicotinic acid performs several important functions in the body, among which are:

      — Strengthening the skin's protective barrier through lipid synthesis – vitamin B3 activates the production of ceramides, free fatty acids, and beneficial cholesterol. By strengthening the lipid layer, moisture loss from the skin surface is reduced, which is very important for those with dry and dehydrated skin.

      — Fighting hyperpigmentation – niacinamide prevents the transfer of melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes. This not only significantly lightens existing spots but also effectively prevents the appearance of new ones.

      — Antioxidant protection – nicotinic acid neutralizes the effects of oxidative stress in cells and prevents the "sticking" of collagen fibers to sugars, allowing tissues to remain elastic.

      — Controlling sebum secretion – B3 reduces the activity of sebaceous glands and makes sebum less viscous, which is very important in acne. This helps to narrow pores and prevents the formation of comedones.

      The advantages of nicotinic acid include its resistance to high and low temperatures, as well as to sunlight. This makes it a universal component for cosmeceuticals used year-round. For the production of creams, serums, and masks, the content of nicotinic acid in products should not exceed 10%. This ratio helps to avoid allergic reactions and irritation.

      Cosmetic products with vitamin B3 allow:

      — To cope with existing pigmentation and prevent the appearance of new;

      — To effectively fight acne and post-acne;

      — To activate collagen production and make the dermis more elastic;

      — To eliminate fine wrinkles;

      — To narrow pores;

      — To reduce skin dryness and address tissue dehydration;

      — To smooth out skin texture and improve its color.

      Products with niacinamide are ideal for oily skin care, as they help reduce sebum production and prevent inflammation.

      Basic rules for using nicotinic acid products

      The concentration of niacinamide in cosmetic products is allowed from 2% to 10%. For basic skin hydration and maintaining the integrity of the protective barrier, 2-5% is sufficient, while for treating acne and eliminating pigmentation, more concentrated products from 10% are required. These are prescribed by a doctor, and for more effective therapy, it is recommended to combine these products with hyaluronic acid for deep hydration of the dermis. In tandem with retinol, the rejuvenating course will be more effective, as vitamin B3 will soften the negative effects of retinoids, such as peeling and dryness.

      It is important to note that the greatest stability of niacinamide is observed at a pH level of 5.0-7.0. When mixed with ascorbic acid or AHA acids of increased concentration, a rush of blood and temporary redness of the skin may occur. Therefore, it is recommended to space the use of such products over time.

      The use of niacinamide in professional cosmetology

      Nicotinic acid is often used in seasonal chemical peels as a soothing and regenerating agent, which helps to shorten the rehabilitation period.

      Incorporating vitamin B3 into meso cocktails allows for direct delivery to fibroblasts and provides an instant positive effect in the form of glowing skin and improved lymphatic drainage.