From Minimizing Redness to Eliminating Acne, This Is the Skincare Ingredient You’re Likely Missing Out On

      Retinoids, niacinamide, and vitamin C may often lead discussions about skincare ingredients, but in my opinion, azelaic acid is one of the most underrated options available. Although dermatologists have endorsed it for many years, it still lacks the spotlight that many of the trending ingredients enjoy, which is surprising considering the various skin issues it addresses simultaneously. Whether you're experiencing acne, persistent redness, post-inflammatory pigmentation, uneven skin tone, or rosacea, azelaic acid stands out as one of the few ingredients that can effectively manage all these concerns while being gentle on the skin. I have included it in my own skincare routine for years and frequently recommend it to my clients as an esthetician. Unlike more potent actives that can sometimes cause irritation before showing results, azelaic acid is generally well-tolerated, making it an excellent choice for those with sensitive skin who still wish to address issues such as acne or pigmentation. “Azelaic acid is a well-known multitasking ingredient,” states consultant dermatologist Beibei Du-Harpur. “At prescription strength, it is a treatment for conditions like acne and rosacea, and it can assist with certain pigmentation concerns as well. Its safety profile means it’s commonly used during pregnancy and by those trying to conceive. Given its effectiveness for sensitive rosacea skin, it proves to be a valuable option for individuals facing multiple skin challenges that might provoke irritation.” Though prescription products are often considered the gold standard, over-the-counter azelaic acid serums have significantly advanced, simplifying its integration into daily skincare routines. Below, dermatologists clarify what azelaic acid is, its mechanism of action, and who stands to gain the most from its use.

      What Is Azelaic Acid? “Azelaic acid is an active component present in both prescription and cosmetic skincare formulations,” explains Du-Harpur. “It is also a naturally occurring substance derived from wheat and rye.” Consultant dermatologist Jason Thomson adds that it’s “a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid produced by malassezia, a type of yeast living on the skin.” He notes that dermatologists have used it for decades to combat acne and rosacea as well as issues such as hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. Despite its name, it does not operate like exfoliating acids such as glycolic or salicylic acid. “Even though it is referred to as an acid, it functions differently from exfoliating acids like AHAs and BHAs, often being gentler on the skin,” he emphasizes.

      What Does Azelaic Acid Do? One reason dermatologists favor azelaic acid is its ability to address multiple skin pathways at once. “Azelaic acid is a genuine multitasker, which is why we frequently suggest it,” states Thomson. “It possesses anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe redness and inflamed areas, making it particularly effective for acne and rosacea. Additionally, it normalizes skin cell turnover within the pores, reducing the blockages that lead to blackheads, whiteheads, and acne outbreaks.” Beyond dealing with blemishes, it also addresses pigmentation. “Azelaic acid can inhibit tyrosinase, an enzyme that contributes to melanin production,” explains Thomson. “With consistent use, it can help diminish post-acne marks, melasma, and other forms of hyperpigmentation.” Du-Harpur acknowledges that while prescription formulations boast the most substantial evidence, cosmetic products can still be beneficial. “Due to its efficacy in these skin issues, azelaic acid-infused cosmetic formulations have been created, though typically at lower concentrations than prescription versions. These may offer some of the advantages of prescription products, but it's important to note that most cosmetic formulations haven’t been evaluated at the final formulation stage, so their benefits are theoretical based on the ingredient's presence rather than formally tested for effectiveness.”

      Who Is Azelaic Acid Suitable For? Perhaps one of azelaic acid’s greatest strengths is its broad applicability. “It is suitable for most individuals, but especially those with sensitive skin and additional skin concerns,” comments Du-Harpur. “It can aid in managing redness, blemishes, and mild pigmentation issues. While it doesn’t produce dramatic changes, it can progressively soothe and enhance skin problems over time.” Thomson agrees, particularly emphasizing its adaptability. “Azelaic acid is suitable for a variety of skin types and can be especially beneficial for individuals dealing with acne, rosacea, post-acne marks, melasma, or uneven skin tone,” he asserts. “It's often a great choice for those with both acne-prone and sensitive skin, especially if they find it difficult to tolerate retinoids or stronger exfoliating acids.” He also highlights another significant advantage: “Azelaic acid can generally be used during pregnancy, unlike topical or oral retinoids which should be avoided. This makes it especially advantageous for pregnancy-related acne or melasma,” although he advises discussing any medicated skincare with a