15 Years Later, This "Mesmerizing" Parisian Fragrance Remains My Top Choice—Here's the Reason.

15 Years Later, This "Mesmerizing" Parisian Fragrance Remains My Top Choice—Here's the Reason.

      As a beauty editor, I’ve tried out hundreds, if not thousands, of perfumes, but only a select few remain on my dressing table. These are the chosen ones—variously shaped and sized bottles that I’ve determined are worthy of such a spot. I categorize my fragrances based on their storage; if a fragrance is decent, I keep it in a storage box in my wardrobe for occasional access. A great fragrance finds a place in a specific drawer for quicker retrieval. Only those that are truly extraordinary make it to the prime position right on top of my dresser—like Frederic Malle's famed Portrait of a Lady (£290).

      **Frederic Malle Portrait of a Lady Eau de Parfum**

      **Key Notes:** Turkish rose, blackcurrant, raspberry, cinnamon, patchouli, sandalwood, amber

      **The History**

      I was fortunate to meet the master perfumer behind this iconic fragrance, Dominique Ropion, famously known as “the master of flowers” for his remarkable talent in crafting exceptional floral scents. Interestingly, the origin of Portrait of a Lady stems from another Frédéric Malle fragrance, Géranium pour Monsieur. Ropion mentions that Malle envisioned a feminine counterpart that would maintain its amber and balsamic foundation. "From this base, I thought of incorporating an extraordinary amount of Turkish rose absolute and essence. By blending it with a chypre aspect, the fragrance gained incredible elegance and character—it was an instant revelation.” Although this perfume was initially introduced in 2010, it remains as timeless and sophisticated as ever. This sentiment is shared by many, including celebrities like Madonna, Catherine Deneuve, and David Beckham, who admire it. To celebrate its 15th anniversary, the brand launched a limited-edition red lacquer bottle, which I was lucky enough to acquire.

      **The Scent**

      Portrait of a Lady is categorized as a chypre fragrance—typically characterized as complex, mysterious, and enticing. These often feature citrus top notes, floral middle notes, and earthy or mossy base notes. Portrait of a Lady embodies the complexity, intrigue, and allure of the chypre category, yet in its own distinctive way. The key lies in its astonishing concentration; apparently, 400 flowers are included in just a single 100ml bottle. However, it’s not overpowering at all—instead, it’s elegant, enigmatic, and surprisingly androgynous. This is one of those rare fragrances that suits everyone from those in their twenties to individuals in their fifties, sixties, or beyond. Ropion remarks, “The timelessness of a fragrance is something every perfumer wishes to achieve! In my opinion, the secret is to create with heart and emotion, and to trust your instincts instead of following trends. Sometimes, this is what allows a scent to resonate deeply within the collective consciousness. Portrait of a Lady revolves around noble materials—true haute parfumerie! At Frédéric Malle, both the ingredients and the story behind the creation are equally vital, each being as significant as the other.

      **The Review**

      “This perfume has a hypnotic quality—a fierce sensuality with substantial character,” Ropion notes. “The allure of Turkish rose is heightened by a heart of patchouli, complemented with sandalwood and incense. Very ambery and woody, Portrait of a Lady gracefully transcends gender classification despite its name, as the skin of whoever wears it does not react any differently." It’s no surprise that this iconic fragrance is cherished by our editors on both sides of the Atlantic.

      Who What Wear UK beauty editor Eleanor Vousden shares, "This is a perfume with a capital P. It's a sumptuous, enigmatic rose that blossoms on the skin for hours and commands attention in any room. Hence, it's not for the faint-hearted—this is a scent meant to be noticed. I envision it on a sophisticated woman exuding confidence and making discreet exits at parties. This fragrance isn’t your grandmother’s rose scent but instead a blood-red rose with dark, velvety petals that you might find on the vanity of a femme fatale. It’s a bit spicy, while the patchouli adds an earthiness that becomes even more addictive alongside the jamminess of the rose."

      Who What Wear UK beauty editorial assistant Brittany Davy admits, "I must confess, I joined the hype for this scent much later than my fellow editors, but I’m already in love. I visited the store a couple of weeks ago to test it after hearing discussions from the Who What Wear beauty team, and believe me, it did not disappoint. It’s a warm, refined fragrance filled with all my favorite notes from cinnamon and vanilla to patchouli and incense. I can totally picture myself wearing this richer fragrance during the autumn and winter months, in a fancy restaurant with a glass of wine in hand. In fact, I've already ordered this scent online in anticipation of the colder weather here in the UK

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15 Years Later, This "Mesmerizing" Parisian Fragrance Remains My Top Choice—Here's the Reason.

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