How the Costume Designer for Too Much Achieved Her Major Breakthrough

      Welcome to The Who What Wear Podcast, your direct connection to the designers, stylists, beauty experts, editors, and trendsetters who influence the fashion and beauty industry. Be sure to subscribe to The Who What Wear Podcast on Apple Podcasts and Spotify. Costume designer Arielle Cooper-Lethem always had a passion for fashion from a young age. “I’ve always adored clothes—particularly vintage—and I knew I wanted to pursue a career in fashion, styling, or design early on,” Cooper-Lethem shared. She began her retail career at 14 and later secured an internship at W magazine, working in the accessories area. “I gained so much knowledge there, it was fantastic; however, I soon realized that fashion wouldn’t provide a sufficient income,” she reflected.

      After continuing to work in various retail and restaurant roles, Cooper-Lethem received her significant opportunity when a friend's mother, a production accountant on a Disney show, encouraged her to explore the production world. “I got a position dressing extras for a Cinemax series set in the '70s, and I absolutely loved it,” she said.

      In the latest episode of The Who What Wear Podcast, Cooper-Lethem speaks with Who What Wear Editorial Director Lauren Eggertsen about her journey from dressing extras to overseeing costume design for Lena Dunham's new Netflix series, Too Much. To read highlights from their discussion, please scroll down.

      I'd like to start with your background and how you began your journey in fashion and costume design.

      I've always had a passion for clothing—especially vintage items—and I was aware from a very young age that I wanted to be involved in fashion, styling, or design. I began working in retail at 14 and secured an internship in the accessories closet at W Magazine during my freshman year at NYU. It was an incredibly valuable experience, but I quickly realized that a career in fashion wouldn't be financially sustainable, which was a difficult realization because I thought, “What’s next for me?”

      I went through a prolonged phase of working in retail and restaurants, feeling creatively lost without fashion in my life. Then, a friend's mother, who worked as a production accountant for a Disney series, suggested that I come work with her and talk to other costume designers in the building. I did just that and ended up dressing extras on a Cinemax show set in the '70s, which was so enjoyable—it felt like a great learning experience, giving me the chance to navigate the fashion landscape swiftly. I found a sense of belonging in film that I hadn’t felt elsewhere; each new project felt reminiscent of a different summer camp and offered a comforting permanence.

      Could you start at the beginning and explain how you connected with Lena Dunham and how this project came about for you? I met Lena through a mutual friend. Naturally, I had watched Girls, as I'm from New York. There was some anticipation surrounding our meeting since people often referred to her as the voice of my generation—though she never claimed that title herself. We hung out several times, and she’s genuinely one of the most endearing people I know. Girls seems to have aged quite well.

      At one point, Lena remarked, “Oh, you’re a New Yorker who moved to London for love,” which I did; I married a British man, and she noted, “You understand.” I read the scripts, and there was a lot of focus on costumes, which made it enjoyable. It was clear what the characters’ styles were from the moment I read the scripts.

      You mentioned that personal connection regarding your move to London for love. In terms of the costuming for Too Much, what key elements represent New York style versus London style?

      As a New Yorker, I believe we carry the most swag in the world; however, London fashion has a certain eccentricity and individuality. There’s a blend of high and low styles I aimed to capture. London has a subculture that feels more preserved than in New York, where it’s easy to read someone’s identity just by their appearance. In New York, we tend to step out of our homes fully prepared for a day filled with varied events. Conversely, Londoners seem to embrace personal expression more with their style; they wear what they want, regardless of the occasion.

      When sourcing costumes, we made an effort to obtain American costumes in the U.S. and British costumes in the UK.

      This interview has been edited and shortened for clarity.