I visited Helsinki for Marimekko Day—these three trends were the most notable.

I visited Helsinki for Marimekko Day—these three trends were the most notable.

      Jalil Johnson is an editor in residence at Who What Wear and a writer, fashion expert, and media figure based in New York. He launched his career as a stylist and later spent three years at Saks Fifth Avenue enhancing his skills in trend analysis, recognizing emerging talent, and brand storytelling. He shares his insights through his newsletter, Consider Yourself Cultured, and has been featured in media outlets like The New York Times, Harper's Bazaar, The Wall Street Journal, and The Financial Times. Vogue also honored him as one of the "New Faces of Street Style."

      Marimekko Day, established 34 years ago by former CEO and president Kirsti Paakkanen, occurs annually around the same time, heralding the arrival of summer. For over 30 years, an outdoor public fashion show has been held in Esplanade Park, located next to the flagship store, inviting attendees into the vibrant world of Marimekko's prints.

      Although this custom has existed for three decades, the essence of the event connects back to its beginnings. In 1951, founder Armi Ratia organized a fashion show to demonstrate how her bright, vibrant prints could be incorporated into daily life in post-war Finland. While fashion plays a significant role in the brand, it transcends being merely a fashion label. Creative Director Rebekka Bay often quotes the founder, saying, "Marimekko could have been anything—modern jazz, an ice cream shop, a flower shop," which conveys that Marimekko represents a lifestyle brand beyond just clothing.

      This lifestyle concept has grown beyond fashion shows to include initiatives like last year's jazz bar in Tokyo, created in collaboration with Finnair. The brand not only designed the service wear for the airline's business class but also has two planes decorated with Marimekko prints. Additionally, their presence during Milan Design Week featured the introduction of a new floral print—the latest addition to Marimekko's extensive floral collection. During my visit to their headquarters in Helsinki's industrial district, I toured the adjacent print mill and observed the screen-printing process for the new floral design, Kukasta Kukkaan.

      While we watched a roll of fabric travel down the conveyor belt, passing through various screens, it was clear that human involvement is still crucial, even with machine assistance. Workers occasionally tossed buckets of paint onto the screens, spreading it evenly across the fabric. Human oversight is vital for addressing any production flaws as well. After seeing the prints come alive, we went upstairs to a space housing an archive of prints and color samples created in the color lab. These samples are frequently referenced as new colors are established. In a time dominated by discussions about artificiality, it was uplifting to witness a brand that values human contribution and views community as integral to its identity. As Bay puts it, "As a brand, we really only come to life when we invite our community into the brand and invite our community to experience the brand."

      This sentiment was reflected in the joyous Marimekko runway show, where the S/S 26 collection was first revealed during Copenhagen Fashion Week. The collection featured playful stripes in lemon yellow and mauve pink, more athletic styles like a horizontally striped polo dress, and perfect summer dresses adorned with the Kukasta Kukkaan print. Finnish band Ruusut provided a live performance during the event, which drew a diverse crowd of attendees across all age groups. Regardless of their backgrounds, many wore something from the brand, whether it was a subtle printed scarf or a striped shirt (popularized by Jackie Kennedy Onassis), or even a striking outfit featuring one of the brand's iconic prints, Unikko. Though rain threatened to dampen the festivities, this was only the second occurrence of rain during 34 years of Marimekko Day. Nevertheless, the weather didn't detract from the celebration; if anything, it underscored the spirit of joyful coincidences that seem intertwined with both the brand and Finland itself—the happy coincidence of a country that endures nearly half the year in darkness being ranked the happiest in the world for the ninth consecutive year; the happy coincidence of securing the last vegetarian meal on my Finnair flight; and the happy coincidence that a lifestyle brand began its journey with a fashion show and continues to share its vision through public fashion events open to anyone willing to brave the rain.

      Fashion of the '60s

      (Image credit: Launchmetrics/Marimekko Runway)

      The influence of the '60s has been emerging gradually for several seasons, and a mod-style minidress is an ideal addition for summer. This dress style has long been a hallmark of Marimekko, similar to a sleeveless design famously worn by Kennedy Onassis on the cover of Sports Illustrated.

      Courrèges

      A-Line Belted Twill Minidress

      Marimekko

      Iloinen Kukasta Kukkaan

      SHUSHU/TONG

      Corseted Floral-Appliqué Bead

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