How American Designers Are Succeeding in 2025

      Welcome to The Who What Wear Podcast. Consider it your direct connection to the designers, stylists, beauty professionals, editors, and influencers who are defining the fashion and beauty landscape. Subscribe to The Who What Wear Podcast on Apple Podcasts and Spotify. What does it mean to be an American designer today? This is the central question that Who What Wear Associate Features Editor Ana Escalante sought to address in her article titled "Invest In America: Meet the Political and Creative Forces Driving American Fashion's Evolution." As she explored this topic, Escalante engaged with American designers and fashion experts from marginalized backgrounds to hear their views on the current state of the fashion industry under the present administration. They expressed their worries about the existing climate, discussed ways consumers can support independent and American brands, and shared their aspirations for the future of the industry. In this episode of the Who What Wear podcast, Escalante joins Editorial Director Lauren Eggertsen to share insights from these interviews, including highlights from discussions with industry leaders like Business of Fashion Senior Correspondent Sheena Butler-Young and designers Jackson Weiderhoeft, Sergio Hudson, and Allina Liu. For excerpts from their conversation, scroll down.

      Ana Escalante: You recently worked on a fantastic piece for Who What Wear featured in our Spring Issue titled "Invest In America: Meet the Political and Creative Forces Driving American Fashion's Evolution." Can you describe the inspiration behind this article and why you chose to pursue this topic specifically?

      Lauren Eggertsen: In examining the contemporary fashion industry from an American viewpoint, we've often focused on European designers and luxury corporations with rich histories. However, there is an abundance of homegrown talent. While we celebrate many beloved designers, being an independent designer today, particularly one whose production largely takes place in the United States, presents significant challenges, especially given the current retail, political, and economic climate. I wanted to thoroughly investigate both well-known and emerging designers to understand what it means to be an American designer in this moment, whether it aligns with their political beliefs or is sustainable for their business practices, and to discuss the overall fashion ecosystem in the United States.

      LE: I can imagine that compiling your ideal list of individuals and brands to reach out to was quite a challenge. How did you decide on whom to contact?

      AE: Much of contemporary American fashion is driven by immigrants, people of color, Black designers, queer designers, and female designers—groups that often lack the power to lead European luxury conglomerates. I see American fashion as a subculture and a countercultural movement, where designs are deeply rooted in their makers' identities. It was essential for me to represent this diversity when selecting the talent and designers for this piece. Each comes from a marginalized community in the U.S. and, considering that the interviews were conducted about a month after the presidential inauguration, many designers felt the weight of how policies could directly affect them via tariffs and the unstable fashion economy. I wanted to focus on those voices.

      LE: After conducting all this research and engaging in conversations, what would you say are your key takeaways from these interviews?

      AE: One significant takeaway is the critical importance of not just promoting these designers on social media but also supporting them through direct purchases. Many expressed that their hope for this piece is to encourage people to buy directly from them and advocate for retailers to pay them on time. Numerous designers candidly mentioned how financially challenging it is to be an independent brand right now. While a follow or a comment on social media is appreciated, it is crucial to actively support these designers with tangible purchases in daily life.

      LE: On a more personal note, how do you view your role as an American fashion editor in this context?

      AE: During my conversation with Alina [Liu], we touched on the notion that maybe New York Fashion Week is fading. There have been murmurs suggesting that investing in America and New York’s fashion scene may not be worthwhile. It’s amusing because New York Fashion Week is something our team looks forward to, and the CFDA has worked hard to uplift American designers, making great strides recently. However, the cost of showcasing in New York is steep. Some designers explained that staging a runway show can range from $30,000 to $50,000 for just 15 minutes, a sum many brands simply can't afford. I wonder what the sentiment of "New York Fashion Week is dead, let's move to Paris or London" implies for our commitment to American fashion and how we can foster a more equitable and accessible environment for emerging designers here. Perhaps it involves consistently highlighting those brands and voices to do our part in supporting them.

      This interview has been edited and condensed for clarity.