Dermatologists Concur: This is the Optimal Method to Prevent a Retinol Purge.

      Among all the skincare ingredients available, I would argue that retinol stands out as the trendiest option. It appears that nearly everyone is using it or, at the very least, being advised to do so by their dermatologist. If you're unaware, the hype around this ingredient arises from its ability to accelerate cell turnover, resulting in brighter and more uniform skin. However, there are a couple of concerns that make some individuals hesitant to incorporate it into their skincare routines: the odor of retinol and the phenomenon known as retinol purging. This purging occurs because increased cell turnover means that any bacteria lodged beneath the surface rises more quickly, as explained by board-certified dermatologist Dara Spearman, MD. This often results in a temporary but noticeable rise in acne, among other issues. (Kudos to pimple patches and spot treatments for providing relief!) If you're interested in learning how to sidestep a severe purge phase and gather expert tips on managing it, continue reading for further insights.

      A retinol purge, sometimes called the "retinol uglies," is a temporary skin reaction caused by using retinol. This usually leads to worsened acne due to the "alterations in normal cell turnover that accompany the use of retinol products," according to double board-certified dermatologist Brendan Camp, MD. While it can be frustrating, this purge period is temporary.

      The key distinction between a typical breakout and a purge lies in the duration. "Retinol purges frequently occur three to six weeks after commencing a new product," Camp notes. "In contrast to regular acne, which lingers, retinol purges are often self-limiting, meaning they diminish or resolve with continued product use." Additionally, a retinol purge may bring about other side effects like redness, scaling, flaking, and dryness, as noted by Spearman.

      Can a retinol purge be avoided? While it is likely that everyone will experience some degree of purging, the severity will vary per individual. Instead of trying to evade it altogether, concentrate on preparing for a smoother transition. Spearman advises starting with a pea-sized amount of retinol two to three days each week. It's also best to use lower concentrations of retinol (around 0.25%) to prevent irritation, with moisture being essential. "Incorporate a daily moisturizer containing ceramides or niacinamide to keep your skin well-hydrated," Spearman suggests. "This can include the moisturizer sandwich method, where you apply it before and after using retinol."

      How to Manage a Retinol Purge

      If you’re experiencing a retinol purge for the first time and need guidance on managing it, aside from being aware of what to avoid, you can minimize side effects by utilizing emollients containing glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide to calm irritated skin, according to Spearman. Camp emphasizes the importance of daily SPF and advises against picking at any surfacing acne, as it can lead to scarring and increase the risk of infection.

      You might feel inclined to stop using retinol to address the breakouts caused by the purge, but both experts suggest it’s better to endure the initial weeks while your skin adjusts. "Retinols provide significant benefits for overall skin health; if you can tolerate it, I recommend continuing use," Spearman states.

      For those with sensitive skin, extra caution may be necessary or you might want to consider alternatives to retinol. "Allow ten minutes after washing your face before applying retinol if you have sensitive skin," Camp advises. "This can help limit the product's ability to deeply penetrate your skin." He also recommends mixing retinol with a moisturizer or considering gentler options like azelaic acid and bakuchiol instead.

      What to Avoid During a Retinol Purge

      It’s well-known that certain combinations of skincare ingredients should be avoided—like benzoyl peroxide and hydroquinone or vitamin C and benzoyl peroxide. Therefore, it’s no surprise that strong ingredients like retinol also have some combinations to remain cautious about. "Avoid products containing ingredients that may increase irritation, such as alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, vitamin C, and benzoyl peroxide," advises Spearman. "This combination will prolong the retinol purge and cause additional irritation." If you consider using more retinol to expedite the purge, think again. Camp warns that increasing your retinol application can exacerbate dryness.

      Should I consult a dermatologist before starting retinol?

      If you're contemplating the introduction of retinol, it's wise to seek advice from a board-certified dermatologist to determine the best approach tailored to your needs. Also, consider visiting your doctor if, while managing a retinol purge, your skin fails to improve within six weeks despite trying over-the-counter products to alleviate symptoms.