The Classics: A Chronicle of Fashion's Original Jeans

      The current fashion scene tends to favor a fast pace over longevity, with new "must-have" items or trends emerging every moment. Frequently, these trends lose popularity within just a few weeks, only to be replaced by something more novel and appealing. What endures? The classics—think Chanel slingbacks, Christian Dior Bar Jackets, and Hermès Kelly bags. Regardless of fashion's fluctuations, the demand for these timeless pieces remains strong, fueled by decades of history that keep them relevant. They have continually stood the test of numerous trends and will persist as long as people continue to shop.

      Presently, there’s an abundance of choices for denim shoppers, whether one is looking for high-end labels, denim specialists, or budget-friendly brands. However, in the beginning, there was only one: the Levi's 501.

      The inception of the first-ever pair of jeans began in 1873 when tailor Jacob Davis collaborated with Levi Strauss, a dry-goods supplier, to patent copper rivets on work trousers. Initially, Davis envisioned these rivets for canvas waist overalls. However, after partnering with Strauss, they opted for denim, leading to the creation of the original 501s. (The 501 name came later, in 1890, designating the lot number for Levi's top-quality jeans.) This choice is regarded as one of the most significant decisions in fashion history, ultimately giving rise to denim's most iconic silhouettes—the undisputed GOAT of jeans.

      The subsequent 80-plus years witnessed the evolution of 501s through extensive adaptations. Features such as back pockets were added, and they adopted a ten-ounce red selvage denim produced by Cone Mills. The well-known red tab with "LEVI'S" in white stitching was also introduced. Over time, the jeans we cherish today began to form. In 1934, the 701s, or Lady Levi's, specifically tailored for women, debuted in Paris during the first All-American runway show. Interest in this style soared after Marilyn Monroe sported a pair in her 1961 film, The Misfits, alongside Clark Gable and Montgomery Clift. Just like 501s, the 701s remain available in 2026. I can attest to that—I own a pair, and no other jeans enhance your figure quite like them.

      Monroe wasn’t the only one contributing to the fame of Levi's. By the 1960s, the brand noted that 501s had become a "staple of subcultures everywhere." Bob Dylan showcased a pair on the cover of his 1963 album, The Freewheelin' Bob Dylan. Steve McQueen wore his 501s in the 1965 film Baby, the Rain Must Fall and regularly styled them with shawl-collar cardigans and Oxford shirts in his daily life. At the original Woodstock Music and Art Fair in August 1969, the Bethel, New York, dairy farm was filled with young attendees clad in 501s, and during the Civil Rights and anti-war movements of the decade, Levi's affordable jeans became a common part of every protester's attire.

      The momentum continued through the '70s, '80s, and '90s. Icons like Patti Smith, Andy Warhol, Kim Gordon, and Kurt Cobain were frequently seen in 501s. Time magazine declared the style the "fashion item of the 20th century" in 1999, with appearances by style icons such as Princess Diana and Sade. Pamela Anderson, Cindy Crawford, and Chloë Sevigny all donned 501s, and in fact, they still do. Brad Pitt starred in a Levi's commercial wearing his pair, and regulars from shows like Beverly Hills, 90210 and Friends had their 501s on rotation.

      During this time, particularly vintage 501s began to be treated as coveted collectibles. It became insufficient to simply purchase a new pair; the thrill lay in finding an authentically worn pair that fit just right, particularly for international buyers with limited access to American-made denim. In Japan, where acquiring American vintage fashion items was becoming increasingly prioritized, the demand for vintage 501s surged. This trend also applied to shoppers in Paris, home to some of the world's most stylish individuals.

      Marissa Cox, a French fashion expert and author of Practicing Parisienne, explained to Who What Wear in 2024, "Recreating [French] fashion is probably easier than you think. It doesn’t require as much effort as it's perceived. In my interviews with several women for my book, one item that consistently emerged as a staple in their wardrobes was Levi's 501s."

      Levi's states that its connection to France goes back to the previously mentioned all-American fashion show in Paris in 1947. Post-war, California apparel manufacturers aimed to present their styles to the European market, with Levi's introducing the 701s, laying the groundwork for